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Heemskirk Face

Type
Face
Part of
Mt Tasman Horokoau

Accessed from the Heemskirk Galcier part of the Fox Neve

Aspect
North
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
11.128 11.128Heemskirk Face, 3+,V,3+ 3+,V,3+
0

Start up a broad gully on the right of the face until above the prominent central icecliff. Then move up left towards the North Shoulder. The icecliff is currently threatening the route.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+
11.129 11.129Arapiles, Oh Arapiles, 4,V,3+ 4,V,3+
0

Follow an arête between Heemskerck Face and North Buttress to join the North Buttress route. Poor rock. The first ascent team descended a couloir into the Abel Janszoon from the top of the North Buttress

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

Follow the ridge between the Heemskirk Face and North Buttress. Poor rock. First ascent team descended a couloir into the Abel Janszoon after reaching the top of the North Buttress.
11.130 11.130North Buttress, 4+,V,4+ 4+,V,4+
0

Ascend snow slopes towards Witches Col at the foot of the buttress, and head up the northern side of the rib. After 200m, cut back onto the rib and follow it to the prominent notch (may require an abseil). Above here, cut left and find the best and safest route through the icecliffs.
‘The Heemskerck and Abel Janzoon Faces
are topped by the enormous icecap of the North Shoulder. This seems to have cycles of serac building and although generally stable, it has been known to calve in cataclysmic fashion’ – Dave Vass.
Dave Vass, Nick Cradock, July 1998

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4+
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+
Comments
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
db0658f3-5974-4e3b-b794-ded1e6320e9c