Heemskirk Face

Start up a broad gully on the right of the face until above the prominent central icecliff. Then move up left towards the North Shoulder. The icecliff is currently threatening the route.

Follow an arête between Heemskerck Face and North Buttress to join the North Buttress route. Poor rock. The first ascent team descended a couloir into the Abel Janszoon from the top of the North Buttress

Ascend snow slopes towards Witches Col at the foot of the buttress, and head up the northern side of the rib. After 200m, cut back onto the rib and follow it to the prominent notch (may require an abseil). Above here, cut left and find the best and safest route through the icecliffs. ‘The Heemskerck and Abel Janzoon Faces are topped by the enormous icecap of the North Shoulder. This seems to have cycles of serac building and although generally stable, it has been known to calve in cataclysmic fashion’ – Dave Vass. Dave Vass, Nick Cradock, July 1998