The Balfour Néve is relatively small, but you'll find the finest quality climbing in the entire Aoraki-Tai Poutini region.
Beginning at Katies Col is the classic ridge leading to Torres Peak and Mt Tasman. There are some interesting ice and mixed routes on Torres before you get to the formidable climbs on the Hidden Face, Balfour Rib, and Balfour Face of Mt Tasman.
Then there's the beautiful arête from Tasman to Silberhorn, and a brief respite along the scenic Main Divide past Mt Graham and Teichelmann.
Finally you come to Magellan and Drake, with buttresses comprising the best quality rock in the region – the climbing on these peaks can only be
described as outstanding.
The first ascents of the Balfour Face of Tasman and Shogun on Drake were arguably two of the best days of alpinism witnessed in the New Zealand mountains since the 1950s.
Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, Jim MacFarlane and Earle Riddiford visited the Balfour névé via Katies Col in December 1948.
Getting into the Balfour is not easy. This very real remoteness makes climbing in the Balfour a demanding undertaking. Access from the lower valley has never been tried due to the insane 700m high break between the névé and the lower glacier.
The closest aircraft access is on the Fox névé below Katies Col.
The standard approach is a traverse across moderately steep, crevassed snow slopes from Katies Col. The alternative is to climb over from Plateau Hut; most first ascents here during the '70s and '80s were done from that direction.
From Katies Col
Route 12A
grade II, 3
From the Fox névé, Katies Col provides the best access. It's possible to fly to the Big Mac landing strip, north-west of Katies Col. From there it's a 1–2 hour grunt up snow slopes to the col.
From Katies Col, sidle around snow slopes below the first subsidiary spur of the west ridge of Torres Peak and move across to an obvious small col/notch near the base of the second spur (the West Rib. On a good day, traversing these slopes is a doddle; on a bad day, you have to front point sideways, a calf-burning, soul-destroying journey.
Descend a steep gully on the south side of the col to the Balfour Glacier. The right-hand side (looking down), of this gully is equipped with two double-bolt abseil anchors. These are rope stretching 50m abseils but should get you over the bergschrund.
On the way back up you'll probably need to climb three reasonably steep pitches.
When crevasses are closed, usually from July to November, it's possible to cut around under the toe of the rib, avoiding abseiling.
Pioneer Hut to Katies Col: 2–4 hrs
Katies Col to Balfour névé: 2–4 hrs
From the east via Main Divide
Route 12B
grade III, 3+
From the east, the best route is from the Grand Plateau over Silberhorn or Mt Graham.
From the summit of Silberhorn, the descent is straightforward but sometimes complicated by crevasses. It can be threatened by avalanches, particularly off Mt Tasman.
This was the access route most commonly used for the early ascents of the Balfour Face.
Plateau Hut to Balfour névé via Graham Spur or Silberhorn: 6–10 hrs
Shelter
The Balfour Glacier is narrow and prone to avalanches, especially off Mt Tasman and under Mts Graham and Teichelmann. Shelter involves bivvying, snowcaving, or tenting. Remember to site your abode away from any avalanche danger. A ledge on the Satellite Buttress under Mt Drake provides a fine-weather perch for those climbing on Drake or Magellan. Camping on the snow a few minutes’ walk from the base of Drake is not bad either, but watch for crevasses.
