Diamond Face

(10 routes)

tba

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
North West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 McGregor McGregor Terpstra
0
wire representing trad 1
Follow a shallow groove just right of the ridge.
Rick McGregor, Peter McGregor, Judy Terpstra, 1975.
2 Keas and Car Thieves 17 , 18 , 16 130m
0
wire representing trad
Start below the groove left of Strobe Light and follow an easy ramp to the bottom of the groove. Climb the groove, first left then right to belay at a patch of grass.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11735mYes
 Start below the groove left of Strobe Light and follow an easy ramp to the bottom of the groove. Climb the groove, first left then right to belay at a patch of grass.
21845mYes
 Follow the easy ramp left until just before the groove on McGregor route. Go directly up the wall above, first right then left. Belay in the groove on MMT below two parallel grooves.
31650mYes
 Follow right groove until it ends, then directly up slab to easy ground.
Paul Drew, Anjali Pande, Jan 1998.
3 Strobe Light 21 , 20 , 17 , 15 140m
2.01
wire representing trad
The large right to left crack system on the left of the Diamond Face. Scramble 15-20m up ledges to start. Follow initial crack, then step left to a delicate traverse below corner before regaining left-tending crack.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12130mYes
 The large right to left crack system on the left of the Diamond Face. Scramble 15-20m up ledges to start. Follow initial crack, then step left to a delicate traverse below corner before regaining left-tending crack.
22035mYes
 Move up, taking either of the two right-tending cracks.
31740mYes
 Continue up through obvious crack system.
41535mYes
 Scramble over to the slabs on the northern slopes.
John Dale, Nigel Perry, 1982.
4 Rough Diamond 20 , 16 , 21 , 19 , 21 117m
2.01
wire representing trad
Up easy diagonal slabs to a bolt, which signals the start of the route. Gain crack system on right of bolt. Follow for 20m before moving right five metres to hidden anchors.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12030mYes
 Up easy diagonal slabs to a bolt, which signals the start of the route. Gain crack system on right of bolt. Follow for 20m before moving right five metres to hidden anchors.
21615mYes
 Moves up past four bolts and rap anchors to belay out left.
32125mYes
 After second bolt go right to a layaway flake, up then back left to clip third bolt.
41912mYes
 Follow crack through overlap then head straight up and left. Avoid belaying on rap bolt, but move higher onto broken ledges.
52135mYes
 Follow line up slabby rib, moving right after fifth bolt.
Sam Brooks, Murray Judge, Andrew Macfarlane, David Stevens, Dec 1999.
5 Uncut Gem 21 , 19
0
wire representing trad
A variation of Rough Diamond, joining it at the third pitch. Climb initial RD crack for 20m but then continue up instead of stepping right.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1210mYes
 A variation of Rough Diamond, joining it at the third pitch. Climb initial RD crack for 20m but then continue up instead of stepping right.
2190mYes
 Follow grooves and corners before trending right rejoining Rough Diamond.
Marty Beare, Stu Allan, 2002
6 Garden Trowel Route 18 , 19 , 17 120m
3
wire representing trad
The line tackles the steep overlaps on the lower right side of the Diamond Face before moving up a steep wall to the start of the Bowen Allan corner. Follow an initial left facing corner in the centre of the overlaps passing to the left of a prominent horn, moving back right along a weakness then up to a shallow groove and belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11840mYes
 The line tackles the steep overlaps on the lower right side of the Diamond Face before moving up a steep wall to the start of the Bowen Allan corner. Follow an initial left facing corner in the centre of the overlaps passing to the left of a prominent horn, moving back right along a weakness then up to a shallow groove and belay.
21945mYes
 Follow right-hand corner onto a steep and eerie ramp that leads to a 15m face; head for a body size groove then great fist jamming out and over the bulge. Step right for belay under roofs.
31735mYes
 Move up and right into V groove for 10m, then trend right on broken ground to the base of the Bowen Allan Corner.
John Barnett, Al Hay, Galen Rowell, Jan 1977.
7 Garden Trowel Direct 20 , 21 , 17 , 19 , 15 162m
3
wire representing trad
The original line has been straightened out by taking a direct start to the right of the original corners and finishing up a beautiful prow on the right side of the Diamond Face. One of the cleanest and most sustained routes on the Mate. Scramble up right-tending ramp towards the right side of the overlaps. Work your way through overlaps to a steep left-tending crack, then right onto ledge and spike belay. The move into the steep left-trending corner is very committing and can be avoided by stepping round to the left.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12040mYes
 The original line has been straightened out by taking a direct start to the right of the original corners and finishing up a beautiful prow on the right side of the Diamond Face. One of the cleanest and most sustained routes on the Mate. Scramble up right-tending ramp towards the right side of the overlaps. Work your way through overlaps to a steep left-tending crack, then right onto ledge and spike belay. The move into the steep left-trending corner is very committing and can be avoided by stepping round to the left.
22145mYes
 Move right for five metres to the base of a steep face. Climb the face to meet the second pitch of the GTR.
31735mYes
 Move up and right into V-groove for 15m, then trend left along a ramp, scrambling as high as possible until the last headwall is gained.
41930mYes
 Climb cracks splitting the centre of a prow then right to slabby country and fine crystalline climbing.
51512mYes
 Move up and right to small notch and ramp system leading to descent route.
Guy Cotter, Nick Craddock, 1980s
8 Brain Dynamics 18 , 21 , 24 90m
2.01
5bolts wire representing trad
A two pitch variation to the Garden Trowel Route, tackling the steep wall and overlap directly above the first pitch. Pitch one as for GTR. Belay on slab at base of Diamond Face; single bolt augments natural pro belay. Follow an initial left facing corner in the centre of the overlaps passing to the left of a prominent horn, moving back right along a weakness then up to a shallow groove and belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11840mYes
 A two pitch variation to the Garden Trowel Route, tackling the steep wall and overlap directly above the first pitch. Pitch one as for GTR. Belay on slab at base of Diamond Face; single bolt augments natural pro belay. Follow an initial left facing corner in the centre of the overlaps passing to the left of a prominent horn, moving back right along a weakness then up to a shallow groove and belay.
22125m1Yes
 Take highest ramp on right until bridging the large corner. Clip bolt on face and move left into hand crack and up past flakes to bolt belay.
32425m4No
 Tackle flake directly above belay before moving up and rightwards past two bolts into corner below roof. Bridge the corner and clip the bolt overhead before moving leftwards along the line of the roof. Exit up parallel cracks to bolt belay on large block below the prow of GTD. Immaculate rock.
Steve Carr, Jonathon Clearwater, Jan 2005.
9 Snake Gully 18
0
wire representing trad
Three pitches. 16, 18, 16. Start on the grassy slabs to the right of the Diamond Face and follow slabs trending up and right to the base of the Bowen Allan Corner. Good climbing on pitches two and three.
Neal Mathieson, Hugh Widdowson, Dec 1988.
10 Bowen Allan Corner 16 , 14 , 17 , 12 , 16 , 16 , 17 , 17 305m
2.01
wire representing trad
Has become a Darrans classic due to the combination of slabs and tussock low down, and stupendous crack and corner climbing higher on the face.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11645mYes
 Starting on the right-hand end of the slabs, climb the first left-facing corner system to a large spike belay (slings can usually be seen from the ground).
21440mYes
 Step left and up a weakness to the first grassy ledge system. Right along this for ten metres until a left-tending corner can be climbed to a belay.
31730mYes
 Continue up, tending left to gain a narrow horizontal ledge that leads leftwards across the face.
41245mYes
 Traverse easily left along ledge and belay before ledge turns into slabs.
51630mYes
 Traverse left across slabs (initially down before up and left) to grassy ledge and stance below groove/left facing corner.
61650mYes
 Up corner then left across slabs, tricky moves lead to base of Bowen Allan corner.
71735mYes
 Climb corner to belay under large roof.
81730mYes
 Turn roof via face on right, onto slab above and then up awkward flaring chimney. Finish up crack on right or escape out left. There are three alternative finishes to the Bowen Allan Corner, all of which take lines up the beautiful grey slab: the crack on the left, Geoff's Crack, 17; Between the Lines, 18, which takes the wall between the cracks and contains two bolts; and the Hugh Widdowson Crack, 18.
Stu Allan, John Bowen, 1972.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies