Bowen Allan Corner

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
Has become a Darrans classic due to the combination of slabs and tussock low down, and stupendous crack and corner climbing higher on the face.
Reference: 
10
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11645mYes
 

Starting on the right-hand end of the slabs, climb the first left-facing corner system to a large spike belay (slings can usually be seen from the ground).

21440mYes
 

Step left and up a weakness to the first grassy ledge system. Right along this for ten metres until a left-tending corner can be climbed to a belay.

31730mYes
 

Continue up, tending left to gain a narrow horizontal ledge that leads leftwards across the face.

41245mYes
 

Traverse easily left along ledge and belay before ledge turns into slabs.

51630mYes
 

Traverse left across slabs (initially down before up and left) to grassy ledge and stance below groove/left facing corner.

61650mYes
 

Up corner then left across slabs, tricky moves lead to base of Bowen Allan corner.

71735mYes
 

Climb corner to belay under large roof.

81730mYes
 

Turn roof via face on right, onto slab above and then up awkward flaring chimney. Finish up crack on right or escape out left. There are three alternative finishes to the Bowen Allan Corner, all of which take lines up the beautiful grey slab: the crack on the left, Geoff's Crack, 17; Between the Lines, 18, which takes the wall between the cracks and contains two bolts; and the Hugh Widdowson Crack, 18.

Grade: 
16 , 14 , 17 , 12 , 16 , 16 , 17 , 17
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
305m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Stu Allan, John Bowen, 1972.
Route Image: 
UUID: 
1f8c4388-0047-4b1e-9d91-5fa9d18fe583