Natural pro requiredA Darrans classic due to the combination of slabs and tussock low down, and stupendous crack and corner climbing higher on the face.
- P1
- 16
- 45m
- Trad
Starting on the right-hand end of the slabs, climb the first left-facing corner system to a large spike belay (slings can usually be seen from the ground).
- P2
- 14
- 40m
- Trad
Step left and up a weakness to the first grassy ledge system. Right along this for ten metres until a left-tending corner can be climbed to a belay.
- P3
- 17
- 30m
- Trad
Continue up, tending left to gain a narrow horizontal ledge that leads leftwards across the face.
- P4
- 12
- 45m
- Trad
Traverse easily left along ledge and belay before ledge turns into slabs.
- P5
- 16
- 30m
- Trad
Traverse left across slabs (initially down before up and left) to grassy ledge and stance below groove/left facing corner.
- P6
- 16
- 50m
- Trad
Up corner then left across slabs, tricky moves lead to base of Bowen Allan corner.
- P7
- 17
- 35m
- Trad
Climb corner to belay under large roof.
- P8
- 17
- 30m
- Trad
Climb the roof through the crack (best) or turn it via the face on the right, onto slab above and then up awkward flaring chimney. Finish up crack on right or escape out left. There are three alternative finishes to the Bowen Allan Corner, all of which take lines up the beautiful grey slab: the crack on the left, Geoff's Crack, 17; Between the Lines, 18, which takes the wall between the cracks and contains two bolts; and the Hugh Widdowson Crack, 18.
