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The Dragon's Lair

Part of

Dragon's Lair is a part of the same cliff band as the main Dragon Crags. It is listed separately here because the access is quite different. You spend the day at one or the other but probably will not visit both in a day. Dragon's lair is an adventure to visit but the climbing to date is well bolted and in the 15 to 22 range. The bush is beautiful and full of birdlife. Being of a South and East aspect, the crag loses the sun early - perfect for a baking hot NW day, not so great in winter.

20-30 minutes
South East

Walk from the road up to the eponymous gap, just to the east of the Devil's Gap crag. Continue over the fence and down the slope to the south. Aim for a small rocky knob about 150m down. On the north side of the knob some flagging tape at the edge of the vegetation marks the entry to the trail. If you are in the right place you will quickly come to a hand-line down a small bluff. A rough trail continues down into some Kanuka. After two switchbacks the trail trends right, back onto the spur and into a small clearing. Continue east down the spur past another short hand-line on a slab until you emerge onto the top of Floating Pillar.

Try not to disturb the loose slabs of rock up here as it is very valuable gecko habitat. Take care of the small plants growing on the cliffs, a number of which only grow on Banks Peninsula rock outcrops.

From the top of Floating Pillar, looking north, the obvious blocky buttress is the Dragon's Claw. Beyond that a small nondescript looking slab is the south side of Hollow Buttress. The furthest buttress visible is the south side of Trentepohlia Wall with the Original Route visible (the other climbs are around the corner).

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