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Floating Pillar

Type
Sector
Part of
The Dragon's Lair

The impressive south-most buttress of the area. It is approached from the top by the main access track.

Walktime
5 minutes from the top to the bottom.
Aspect
South East
Access

Two anchors, on the right and left of the nose of the buttress can be cautiously accessed for abseiling in - a sixty metre rope or longer is required. Alternatively head down the trail that leads off south from slightly back up the ridge - this will bring you to the base of Floating Pillar and the trail that leads along the base of the crags.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
MUA MUAMemorium Ut Apes, 20 20 30m 11
1.02

Start up through the juggy roof past two closely spaced bolts. Left into the corner and up. A tricky but well protected move right at the top of the corner is the crux. If you fall off, the rope will swing you past the crux move, thereby bypassing it. Up the easier ground into the finishing chimney. When first scouted, there was a honey bee colony living in a hole at the back of the chimney - Hence the name "a memorial to bees".

  • P1
  • 20
  • 30m
  • 11
EAL EALEdges and Ledges, 19 19 30m 12
3

The prize jewel in the dragon's hoard. Similar start to Memorium then straight up the corner for 30m of quality climbing. Near the top, step to the right for the tricky slab section. Shares the Memorium anchor.

  • P1
  • 19
  • 30m
  • 12
 The Main Line, 21 21 30m 11
1.02

Start up the shallow corner to the right of Edges and Ledges. Stick to the corner till after the 6th bolt (crux), then step to the right and traverse on big edges to the slab. Follow the left side of the slab to the anchor (DBA). Bolted By Lindsay Main 2020.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 30m
  • 11
 Project, A0 A0 30m
0

Cleaned by Hugh Logan, bolted by Lindsay Main and climbed at A0 by Hugh.

  • P1
  • Aid A0
  • 30m
 Anticipation, 17 17 20m
2.01

This route follows the obvious crack on the right of a large red face. Start up easy ledges then traverse right into the crack. There are two good nut placements before the main crack, but they will only be found by the observant climber. Very good gear. Straightforward and exciting climbing to a double bolt anchor on a ledge.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • Trad
Comments
UUID
 
c4a61e77-f0ef-49ef-92d0-e4f9ade54e5e