Dragon Crags

SPECIAL CONDITIONS APPLY TO ACCESS AT THIS CRAG

There is a booking system which requires climbers to sign in with their names and vehicle registration for each day of climbing. This is monitored by a group of "gatekeepers". who will interact with the farmer. There will be a cut-off each weekend for the coming weekend on Friday evening at 7 pm. Any registrations after that time will not be notified to the farmer, and therefore do not have permission.

Sign in by going to the Google form at: https://forms.gle/oqQK7hfLoD1LZgHS9

AFTER A LENGTHY CLOSURE DUE TO THE THOUGHTLESSNESS AND STUPIDITY OF A NUMBER OF CLIMBERS WHO HAVE REPEATEDLY LEFT GATES OPEN, AND/OR BEEN FOUND ON THE LAND WITHOUT PERMISSION, THESE MEASURES HAVE BEEN TAKEN TO ENSURE THAT CLIMBERS COMPLY WITH THE FARMER'S REQUIREMENTS.

DO NOT CONTACT THE FARM MANAGER

It is not uncommon for farming activities to require the farm to be closed to the public. This may occur because of lambing, stock movements, helicopter spraying, or other reasons.Any closures will be notified here.

Approach routes
Drive toward Little River and turn off to the east just before the town, on Kinloch Road, continuing uphill to the south to join Bossu Road. Drive 2 km east and turn south again on Gap Road toward Robin Hood Bay. The best parking is just before a gate near the pine trees. Walk along the road 100 metres to another gate with an NZAC sign and track. Walk south along the track and on to the main ridge wit a view to Peraki Valley. The Gap itself is to the south, with the farm track running through it.

There are two approach routes. The upper track crosses the main ridge and follows the farm track to the Gap. The Red Slab is adjacent to the Gap on the left, with the other crags downhill along the ridge to the east. (The cliff on the right side of The Gap is the East Cliff of Devils Gap). At the Gap cross the fence and head south and then east up and over the rocky ridge; then following the rough track down the ridge to the top of Karaka Wall and then Bobo Wall below Karaka Wall. However, the track departs the ridge to the south (right-hand side) about 15m before you reach Karaka Wall, and descends steeply through the gorse and scrub to the south end of Bobo Wall. It traverses below Bobo Wall toward the ridge, meeting the south end of Gaga Wall, the lowest of the three walls cutting across the ridge, where a side track leads off to the ridge and then down the north side for access to the Upper Pillars, before descending steeply again for about 150 metres to the Dragon's Tail. From a flat area it is possible to scramble up to the col beside the Dragon's Tail summit, or to the top of the Little Pillar. The main track continues down and rightward before cutting across and then down below the Dragon's Tail, where it meets the lower track.

Note that this is very steep terrain and good footwear is essential.

The lower track is marked with steel fence posts and blue tubing. It takes a farm track that goes eastward from the ridge to a fence. Do not open the gate: climb the stile on the left, and follow the track leading gradually down the slope. Past an area of gorse and kanuka that has been sprayed, drop down through the paddock to a branch track below that cuts back to the west, and then swings south toward the crags. This old overgrown farm track runs level to a small clearing, and then a foot track ascends through the gorse and scrub to the lower buttresses.

The main track goes past the start of The Road to Perdition in the Multi-pitch area, with a side track leading off from an area of bush to Pioneer Ridge on the right. The track continues past the base of the Baby Buttress, across a small gap, and up to the base of the Dragon's Tail. A side track goes steeply up to the right to The Gully area and the top of the Baby Buttress.