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Trentepholia Wall

Type

The very red, north most wall of Dragon's Lair hangs impressively above a large low angled slab. The routes all begin at the top of the slabs. The slabs can be soloed with care to a double bolt anchor at the base of the headwall. There are some bolts to follow if you feel you want a rope.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 The Original Route, 13 13 35m
0

Scramble up the vegetated slabs then up a gulley on the south of the headwall. Watch out for large loose blocks! Not recommended, but was the easiest way up to the top.


  • P1
  • 13
  • 35m
  • Trad

 The Flight of the Red Dragon, 18 18 25m 8
1.02

Named after a refrigerator sized block that was dislodged alarmingly easily during the ascent of The Original Route. Climb up to a slight overhang. Escape right, through the crux to easier ground, then up and left before finishing easily up right to the top. DBA shared with Warding Stone.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 25m
  • 8

 The Warding Stone, 16 16 25m 8
0

Straight up from the anchor on the arete. Engaging climbing through a couple of small overhangs.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • 8

 The Rattling Bones, 15 15 25m 7
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 25m
  • 7

Go north (Climber's Right) Across the vegetated ledge from the anchor station at the start of The Warding Stone. Up the slab to a steeper section then a large ledge. Continue up the wall above and find the double ring bolt anchor at the back of the top out ledge. There is the occasional rattling hold but the climb is fun and sustained at the grade.


Comments
UUID
 
d6add775-09df-436c-a4ab-29a5bb9fad38