OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
The most obvious blocky buttress looking North from the top of the Floating Pillar.
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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| MW | MWMr Wedge, 22 | 22 | 15m | 5 |
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Start up the wide pinching block to the left of the 1st bolt. Go up and right through a tricky technical sequence to gain the slab at the 3rd bolt. Up the slab till the climb steepens on good holds, followed by a slopy mantle to finish at the anchor ledge. Shares the anchor with Razorblade Manicure. Recommend pre-clipping the first bolt as it is quite committing
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| RM | RMRazorblade Manicure, 22 | 22 | 15m | 5 |
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Start to the right of Mr Wedge below a streaky section of the wall. Good holds on the steep section are followed by small but very positive crimps to get onto the slab. Continue delicately to the top.
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| C | CCuticle, 15 | 15 | 15m | 4 |
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Starts to the right of Razorblade Manicure. Follow the cracked block system up and left. Shares the last bolt and same anchor as Razorblade Manicure.
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| D | DDesecration, 18 | 18 | 15m | 6 |
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Starts from the Razorblade Manicure anchor. Traverse left and up the arete with 2 bolts. Then cross the ledge to the right and up the obvious corner crack. Cross the vegetated ledge at the top to find the anchor. 30m abseil from this anchor will get to the ground.
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