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Mt Tasman / Rarakiroa

Type
Altitude
3497m
Part of
Image
Lat/lon
-43.56532147,170.15725097, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX15 704 725
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Places

Type Name Alert
Face East Face
Face Heemskirk Face
Face Abel Janszoon Face
Face Hidden Face
Face Balfour Face
Mountain The Buttress
Pass Witches Col

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
4.46 4.46Silberhorn Arête (South Ridge), III,3+,3+ III,3+,3+ 0m
1.02

From the summit of Silberhorn, ascend the moderately steep snow and ice arête; a classically beautiful climb. This ridge usually consists of very hard ice, especially in winter. Descend the same way, or give yourself a grand adventure by descending Syme Ridge (Route 4.50).


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

 Direct to the south of the Summit, 4- 4- 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-

Up directly to the col between Silberhorn and Mt Tasman.


 Direct to the North Shoulder, 4 4 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4

Up slopes under the summit of Mt Tasman parallel to Syme Ridge, finishing either directly to the summit or onto the North Shoulder.


11.127 11.127North Shoulder, IV,3,3+ IV,3,3+ 0m
1.02

A classic climb. From the summit of Lendenfeld, Tasman appears very close and, if conditions are good enough that you do not have to pitch the route, then it should not take long. However, several parties have found themselves on overnight epics due to pitching the entire Plateau Face, usually due to hard ice. There is nothing very steep on this climb, but you need to be comfortable with a lot of air under your feet.The climb is best approached by traversing over Lendenfeld to reach Engineer Col. Above Engineer Col, there is often an icecliff straddling the ridge crest. The route usually follows moderately steep ice gullies on the Plateau Face to where Syme Ridge joins the North Shoulder. Although the section above the col has changed markedly over the last few decades, it still provides a relatively straightforward route onto the shoulder. The broad North Shoulder eventually narrows into an exhilarating ridge, which leads to the summit. Also used as a descent route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

Images

Comments
Attribution
Photo by Clayton Garbes
UUID
 
fa7eb7ae-8181-4f87-ad0b-889df0b75ee6