“Secret Valley” is one of the crags within the Wharepapa South area, “Secret Valley”
covers an extensive area of ignimbrite cliffs and spires with a good range of climbs suited to
the more adventurous climber who likes to get away from the maddening crowds. It has not
been developed for sport climbing and is non-commercial.
Drinking water is available from fresh water springs on the true right of the stream, under
“Crag X”, on a bend in the stream. A little further down, the stream falls over some boulders
creating a pleasant spot for a swim (watch out for the toe hungry eels!). Some camping has
also been permitted near the crags, a $2 donation is appreciated.
“Secret Valley” was discovered in 1988, by a group of Hamilton climbers, in an attempt to
find new crags, but was not climbed on until almost two years latter. With only a small
number of climbers putting up the climbs, the number of climbs completed is not extensive,
but they are of high quality.
“Secret Valley” is found within Longsight Station at the end of Townsend Road, about 4km
north of Wharepapa South. The Valley backs on to “Castle Rock” and the “Boulder Field”,
but entry is not permitted over property boundaries.
Permission to climb must be obtained from the Singh family, at either of the two houses off
the end of Townsend Road. It has been usual to ask Jo at the second house ph 07-8727717 ,
or Guru at the first house, in person on the day you wish to enter their property.
The local farmers have, so far, been very receptive to climbers using their rock, and the
usual courtesies regarding private land and stock are expected. Please remove all your
rubbish, be thoughtful of where you go to the toilet, no dogs, and leave gates as you found
them. During early spring (August/September), be extra cautious due to lambing, and do
not be surprised if permission to enter is refused.
Walking access to “Secret Valley” is through the gate, just right of the second house.
Continue up and round the hill to the left until the track is reached. Follow this track above
the stream to the crags. Vehicle access is also possible, please ask for directions as the
route is tricky. There are various parking spots depending on your vehicle and track
conditions. It has been possible to drive all the way to the crags, but you must first check
with the land owners.