Crag X

The obvious large cliff, on the other side of the stream, opposite “Assassination Wall”. It is much less bushy than when the topo photo was taken.

Type:

Wall

Aspect:

West

Access:

Access is up the grass slopes directly below the central area, easier from the left. A track to the left of the cliff leads to climbs on the second tier. The Moon On Ice area of the second tier is accessed up grass slopes right of the cliff, crossing a fence.
Descent is down a vague track down past Moon on Ice area, but better to cross the gate at the top of the crag and then walk left along a fence line for 200m to a track on the left (looking in, easiest way off). Belay bolts and chains at the top of most older routes are not set up for lowering off or abseiling. After consulting the owners and if you have 4x4 vehicle, you can park just below this cliff, either side of the bridge.
Description of climbs starts with the lower tier from left to right. To get off the left hand
ledge above this tier, either abseil from the bolts, traverse left, or continue up another pitch. To get off the
right hand ledge (below Moon On Ice), climb another pitch or walk down the grass slope to the base.

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

Link to edit content

Heavenly Creatures

12m

The left hand most climb on the lower tier, to the left and around the corner from a manuka tree. Climb the face just right of an off-width. 4 bolts, not all take hangers. Thread, #4 Camelot, hex’s, and SBC for belay. Provides a first pitch to “Sorry Stu”.

Grant Pearson / Jonathan Meagher 14-Jan-95

Heaven Up Here

16 ,16

40m

Follows the obvious high arete on the left of the main cliff. Even though the route meanders, you can be as direct as your boldness dictates. Rope drag stops the route being done in one pitch, as found out on the first ascent.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	16	20m	4	Yes
	Start up a crack to the right of the manuka bush and left of “Jesus Was A Leprechaun”, #1 Friend, then follow the face up till it overhangs. Step right to clip the fixed peg (with a long runner), then left again, and up to reach the ledge. 4 bolts, the last 2 do not take hangers. DBB on the right.
2	16	20m	1	Yes
	Step left from the ledge, and up the knobbly rock past a bolt and thread (thin tape or cord) to the fixed peg. Step out right to the arete to get past the next two bolts, then left again before reaching the ledge with a thread runner. Finish directly above the last bolt. An escape exists to the SBC on the right from the ledge. Bolt/chain belay points.

Grant Pearson / Jonathan Meagher 12-Feb-94

Jesus Was a Leprechaun

12m

On the left end of the lower tier is an arete with soft yellow rock and corners either side. The one on the left is “Jesus Was A Leprechaun”. Climb the left facing corner, stepping on the arete at a small ledge before continuing up the final corner. Originally climbed on marginal pro using wires in the crack, but now has a bolt and fixed peg within reach from adjacent climbs. SBC, and wire in crack, belay/abseil from the ledge.

Grant Pearson / John Woolford, Stuart Gerritsen, Birgit Himmelsbach 11-Jul-93

Teddy Bear

12m

Climb the right facing corner to the right of “Jesus Was a Leprechaun”. Where the corner runs out, step left onto the face, and continue up the arete. 2 bolts, fixed peg, and wires in the crack. SBC, and wire in crack, belay/abseil from the ledge. This is the best route to the ledge.

John Woolford / Grant Pearson, Birgit Himmelsbach 11-Jul-93

Not Much Ado About Nothing

Climb the left facing corner, to the right of “Teddy Bear”, to the ledge. Walk off to the right, poorly protected and not suitable for a beginners lead.

Jonathan Meagher (solo) 5-Feb-94

Angels’ Landing

10m

To the right, and at a higher level, of “Not Much Ado About Nothing” is a small face split by a crack. Climb the crack, using wires for pro, to the ledge. Bolt/chain, and wire in crack, belay/abseil from the ledge.

Mark Tynan / Jonathan Meagher, Melissa Potter 5-Feb-94

Heaven is a Place

Witches Heaven

13 ,20

30m

Start as Heaven is a Place, up the seam in the yellow wall, moving left at the top to the cave. (Bolt/chain belay) 10m, 3b.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	13	10m	3	No
	Start as Heaven is a Place, up the seam in the yellow wall, moving left at the top to the cave. (Bolt/chain belay) 10m, 3b.
2	20	20m	10	No
	Climb through the middle of the triangular overhang, and through steepish ground to the rib and ledge above. Finish up the edge of the wall left of HIAP to chains. 60m rope will reach the ground. Or you can belay on top off three naked bolts. A couple of longer quickdraws, and a 60cm sling just above the two thirds height ledge, make rope drag comfortable. 20m, 10b.

Dave Offner and Andrew Wilkinson (10/04/16)

Heaven is a Place

13 ,14 ,19

35m

Follows the line up the central face, finishing on the pillar.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	13	10m	2	Yes
	Climb the face with thin seam on the right of “Angels’ Landing”. 2 bolts with hangers, triple bolt belay (wires required for hangers), or continue up either of the variations.
2	14	15m	2	Yes
	Continue up the face, taking the right hand variation. Crux at top. 2 double bolts, 2 single bolts (take wires). DBC belay.
3	19	10m	2	Yes
	Continue up the face to the top of the pillar. 2 bolts, triple bolt belay. You can avoid this pitch by traversing to the top pitch of “Moon on Ice”.

Phil Higgins / Edward Gordon Dec-89 Phil Higgins / Dave Smith Dec-89

Heaven is a Place (2nd pitch variation)

17m

Start as for the previous variation, but head out left and up past the first bolt. The better variant. 5 bolts (take wires). DBC belay.

Phil Higgins / John Murray 21-Jan-90

Neighbouring On Verbose

12m

Climb the chimney to the right of “Heaven is a Place”, using knobs, and blocks, for pro. Finish by going under the block in the chimney, Friend runner, and exiting out top. DBC belay.

Jonathan Meagher / Mark Tynan 5-Feb-94

The Golden Goat

16m

To the right of “Neighbouring On Verbose” is the obvious buttress with a crack that splits into two obvious off-widths. Climb to up to the junction, then follow the left off-width. Take your big pro. DBC belay.

Mark Tynan 5-Feb-94

Down and Dirty with Cupid

16m

Follow the right off-width of the “Golden Goat”. Take your big pro. DBC belay. Was there some romance this Valentines day?

Allan Cox / Joanne Jeske 14-Feb-97

Bluebeard

20m

Climb the obvious right facing corner, with the ledge at about two thirds height, to the right of “The Golden Goat”. Protection in the crack with medium to large Friends. Step left at the top to #1.5 Friend placement, and finish up the grass. DBC belay.

Phil Higgins / Edward Gordon, Dave Smith Dec-89

If I Should Fall From Grace with God

20m

Start up the corner/crack to the right of “Bluebeard” stepping left to get onto the slab. Traverse left to the next corner, climb the corner stepping right to get over the block at the top. Protection in the cracks with Friends and Wires. DBC belay.

Grant Pearson / Jonathan Meagher 14-Jan-95

Gardening as You Go

20m

The easy angled right hand most arete. Climb to the ledge, then continue to the left over the steps up to the top of “If I Should Fall From Grace with God”. Protection in the cracks with medium to large friends, also has two bolts that were added when the route was cleaned two years after the first ascent. DBC belay. Continue up “Heaven’s Gate” for an easy three pitch climb.

Jonathan Meagher / Grant Pearson 14-Jan-95

Sacrifice Of Twelve Burning Tiger Giraffe

12m

The second tier starts well to the left of the lower tier by following the track around past the previous climbs. It also continues to the right of the lower tier, where a track crosses the fence and continues to the top. Some of the climbs that start from the ledge are best accessed by climbing a pitch on the lower tier. Follow the track around to the left, and up, and left again past Ripe, till the last rib before the top. On the left is a small buttress behind a mahoe tree. Climb the face, stepping left onto the arete to finish on top. 6 bolts without hangers, DBC belay.

Melissa Potter / Jonathan Meagher, Grant Pearson 12-Feb-94

Ripe

12m

On the track to “Sacrifice of Twelve Burning Tiger Giraffe”, you pass an obvious face and arete on the last obvious buttress. Climb the line up the face past the bolts. The climb was well ripened by the time it was climbed.

Brendan Haigh 1996

The Crack

10m

Around the arete to the left of “Naked Buzz” is a distinct crack, climb it. Massive bolt belay.

Jonathan Meagher / Grant Pearson 27-Feb-94

John’s Climb

12m

The face between “The Crack” and the arete left of “Naked Buzz”. 5 bolts, and a horizontal #3 Friend placement, massive bolt belay.

John Woolford 14-Dec-97

Naked Buzz

12m

Above the step on the track to “Ripe” is a buttress with several features. Climb the face on the left side of the buttress. 6 bolts with hangers, massive bolt belay. Something about a swarm of bees while Adam was stripped off had an impact on the name of this climb.

Adam Saunders

Picnic in the Jungle

20m

To the right of “Naked Buzz”, and on the left edge of “Sorry Stu” is a groove that leads into a vegetated gut. Climb the groove to the tree at the top of the loose flake. Continue leaping from tree to tree to the top.

Grant Pearson / Stuart Gerritsen 15-Jan-94

Sorry Stu

15m

Follow the ledge, to the right of “Naked Buzz”, to the last buttress before the second pitch of “Heaven Up Here”. Climb the overhanging buttress on good holds to the top. 5 bolts (the first and last need wires, while the rest have fixed hangers), DBC belay.

Allan Cox Oct-94

Where Angels Fear to Tread

19 ,14

30m

To the right of the second pitch of “Heaven Up Here” are some lines going though the roof systems. To get to the cave at the start of these lines, either climb one of the routes from below, or traverse in from either end. Belay bolts exist along the cave. The most obvious line following the crack system through the overhangs. Prepare to scare yourself!,

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	19	20m		No
	Open Project
2	14	10m	3	No
	Step out right, past the arete, and finish straight up the corner to the top of the crag. 3 naked bolts, DBC belay.

Pitch 2: Grant Pearson 21-Mar-98

Heaven’s Gate

15m

On the second tier start from the ledge approached from the right. Climb the obvious left leaning slab on the right of “Crag X”. 4 naked bolts, DBC belay at top and bottom. Start with “Gardening as You Go” and finish with the top pitch of “Moon on Ice” to create an easy three pitch route.

Grant Pearson / John Woolford 21-Sep-97

Moon on Ice

Sinister Clown

10m

Left of To Hell and Back. Climb the shallow right facing groove then move left to follow the black streak up the slightly overhanging wall, to DBC.

Dave Offner and Andrew Wilkinson (17/12/16)

Moon on Ice

To Hell and Back

15m

This was a long term unfinished project up the wall left of Moon on Ice's first pitch, to a shared lower off.

Andrew Wilkinson and Dave Offner (01/05/16)

Moon on Ice

17 ,6

35m

The right hand arete of the main face of “Crag X”. Access via grassy slopes to right, passing a fence, or a first tier climb.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	17	20m	6	No
	Start up the slab and traverse up and right to the arete, or climb the boulder problem crack with a wire for protection. Climb the arete finishing on the pedestal. 6 bolts, first does not take a hanger, the rest have fixed hangers. DBC belay.
2	6	15m		No
	Climb the easy slab/arete to the top of a large block. SBC belay.

Grant Pearson / Shane McQuoid 28-Feb-93

Moon On Ice

Lichenophrope

17m

On the wall right of Moon On Ice, starting by a rock spike in the ground. Climb the flake into the overhanging groove. A tricky mantel leads to a slabby wall to finish at DBC.

Dave Offner and Andrew Wilkinson (08/10/16)

Dave's Corner

12m

The corner amongst the trees, to the right of “Moon On Ice”. Thread belay.

Dave Smith / Phil Higgins Dec-89

Red Wine and Crayfish

15m

Further right of the second tier of “Crag X” are a number of buttresses at a high level. You can traverse around to them, but it’s best to follow the road through the gate and up the hill. The road switches back so it provides easy access to both the top and bottom to the following climbs. On the buttress second from the right, left of “Ivan the Terrific”. Easiest access is from the road up the hill to just past a large rock on the right, and then follow the track to the left, left around some boulders, to the base of the buttress. Climb the wide scoop left of the arete and onto the face and slab. 5 bolts with hangers.

Allan Cox 17-Aug-97

Ivan the Terrific

15m

The obvious arete on the buttress second from the right. Climb the overhanging boulder problem start and continue up the arete. 5 bolts with hangers.

Nardene Berry 7-Sep-97

Solid Pleasure

12m

On the furthermost buttress on the right. Easiest access is from the road up the hill to just past a large rock on the right, and then follow the track to the left, then right around some boulders, to the base of the buttress. Climb the face between the two pungas. 5 bolts with hangers DBC belay.

Grant Pearson / Jonathan Meagher 20-Mar-97

Where Angels Fear to Tread

Hallucinating Angels

18m

Best accessed as Witches Heaven and traverse 7m left from its belay (to DBB). Climbs the steep featured wall left of Where Angels Fear to Tread. Easier ground leads to a steep finish right of Heaven Up Here, to DBC lower off/ abseil.

Andrew Wilkinson and Dave Offner (17/12/16)

UUID:

62251cd2-c911-4d81-8ed2-8444de12f941

(33 routes)