Crag X

The left hand most climb on the lower tier, to the left and around the corner from a manuka tree. Climb the face just right of an off-width. 4 bolts, not all take hangers. Thread, #4 Camelot, hex’s, and SBC for belay. Provides a first pitch to “Sorry Stu”.

On the left end of the lower tier is an arete with soft yellow rock and corners either side. The one on the left is “Jesus Was A Leprechaun”. Climb the left facing corner, stepping on the arete at a small ledge before continuing up the final corner. Originally climbed on marginal pro using wires in the crack, but now has a bolt and fixed peg within reach from adjacent climbs. SBC, and wire in crack, belay/abseil from the ledge.

Climb the right facing corner to the right of “Jesus Was a Leprechaun”. Where the corner runs out, step left onto the face, and continue up the arete. 2 bolts, fixed peg, and wires in the crack. SBC, and wire in crack, belay/abseil from the ledge. This is the best route to the ledge.

Climb the left facing corner, to the right of “Teddy Bear”, to the ledge. Walk off to the right, poorly protected and not suitable for a beginners lead.

To the right, and at a higher level, of “Not Much Ado About Nothing” is a small face split by a crack. Climb the crack, using wires for pro, to the ledge. Bolt/chain, and wire in crack, belay/abseil from the ledge.

Start as for the previous variation, but head out left and up past the first bolt. The better variant. 5 bolts (take wires). DBC belay.

Climb the chimney to the right of “Heaven is a Place”, using knobs, and blocks, for pro. Finish by going under the block in the chimney, Friend runner, and exiting out top. DBC belay.

To the right of “Neighbouring On Verbose” is the obvious buttress with a crack that splits into two obvious off-widths. Climb to up to the junction, then follow the left off-width. Take your big pro. DBC belay.

Follow the right off-width of the “Golden Goat”. Take your big pro. DBC belay. Was there some romance this Valentines day?

Climb the obvious right facing corner, with the ledge at about two thirds height, to the right of “The Golden Goat”. Protection in the crack with medium to large Friends. Step left at the top to #1.5 Friend placement, and finish up the grass. DBC belay.

Start up the corner/crack to the right of “Bluebeard” stepping left to get onto the slab. Traverse left to the next corner, climb the corner stepping right to get over the block at the top. Protection in the cracks with Friends and Wires. DBC belay.

The easy angled right hand most arete. Climb to the ledge, then continue to the left over the steps up to the top of “If I Should Fall From Grace with God”. Protection in the cracks with medium to large friends, also has two bolts that were added when the route was cleaned two years after the first ascent. DBC belay. Continue up “Heaven’s Gate” for an easy three pitch climb.

The second tier starts well to the left of the lower tier by following the track around past the previous climbs. It also continues to the right of the lower tier, where a track crosses the fence and continues to the top. Some of the climbs that start from the ledge are best accessed by climbing a pitch on the lower tier. Follow the track around to the left, and up, and left again past Ripe, till the last rib before the top. On the left is a small buttress behind a mahoe tree. Climb the face, stepping left onto the arete to finish on top. 6 bolts without hangers, DBC belay.

On the track to “Sacrifice of Twelve Burning Tiger Giraffe”, you pass an obvious face and arete on the last obvious buttress. Climb the line up the face past the bolts. The climb was well ripened by the time it was climbed.

Around the arete to the left of “Naked Buzz” is a distinct crack, climb it. Massive bolt belay.

The face between “The Crack” and the arete left of “Naked Buzz”. 5 bolts, and a horizontal #3 Friend placement, massive bolt belay.

Above the step on the track to “Ripe” is a buttress with several features. Climb the face on the left side of the buttress. 6 bolts with hangers, massive bolt belay. Something about a swarm of bees while Adam was stripped off had an impact on the name of this climb.

To the right of “Naked Buzz”, and on the left edge of “Sorry Stu” is a groove that leads into a vegetated gut. Climb the groove to the tree at the top of the loose flake. Continue leaping from tree to tree to the top.

Follow the ledge, to the right of “Naked Buzz”, to the last buttress before the second pitch of “Heaven Up Here”. Climb the overhanging buttress on good holds to the top. 5 bolts (the first and last need wires, while the rest have fixed hangers), DBC belay.

On the second tier start from the ledge approached from the right. Climb the obvious left leaning slab on the right of “Crag X”. 4 naked bolts, DBC belay at top and bottom. Start with “Gardening as You Go” and finish with the top pitch of “Moon on Ice” to create an easy three pitch route.

Left of To Hell and Back. Climb the shallow right facing groove then move left to follow the black streak up the slightly overhanging wall, to DBC.

This was a long term unfinished project up the wall left of Moon on Ice's first pitch, to a shared lower off.

On the wall right of Moon On Ice, starting by a rock spike in the ground. Climb the flake into the overhanging groove. A tricky mantel leads to a slabby wall to finish at DBC.

The corner amongst the trees, to the right of “Moon On Ice”. Thread belay.

Further right of the second tier of “Crag X” are a number of buttresses at a high level. You can traverse around to them, but it’s best to follow the road through the gate and up the hill. The road switches back so it provides easy access to both the top and bottom to the following climbs. On the buttress second from the right, left of “Ivan the Terrific”. Easiest access is from the road up the hill to just past a large rock on the right, and then follow the track to the left, left around some boulders, to the base of the buttress. Climb the wide scoop left of the arete and onto the face and slab. 5 bolts with hangers.

The obvious arete on the buttress second from the right. Climb the overhanging boulder problem start and continue up the arete. 5 bolts with hangers.

On the furthermost buttress on the right. Easiest access is from the road up the hill to just past a large rock on the right, and then follow the track to the left, then right around some boulders, to the base of the buttress. Climb the face between the two pungas. 5 bolts with hangers DBC belay.

Best accessed as Witches Heaven and traverse 7m left from its belay (to DBB). Climbs the steep featured wall left of Where Angels Fear to Tread. Easier ground leads to a steep finish right of Heaven Up Here, to DBC lower off/ abseil.