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Surrealist Wall

Type
Part of

The “Surrealist Wall” is above the track, on the left, opposite the start of “The Ravine”.
If you think the names are unusual, try looking for their name sakes in
works of Salvador Dali. Some of the lines on the right hand side are still to be climbed.

Image
Aspect
North
Access

A
track has been cut along the base of the cliff, with access from either end or several points
straight up through the gorse. Descent can be made down the gully in the centre of the cliff, or around either end.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Surrealist Manifesto, 12 12 10m 4
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 10m
  • 4

There are two ribs on the far left end of “Surrealist Wall”. Climb the longer right rib and slab to the top.


 Shades of Night Descending, 13 13 13m 2
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • 13m
  • 2
  • Trad

A left slanting groove, just left of the third arete on the left end of “Surrealist Wall”. Follow the arete using RP's for pro. Continue up the slab to the top.


 Persistence of Memory, 11 11 15m 3
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • 15m
  • 3

The arete on the right of” Shades of Night Descending”. Interesting rock formations, but do not break them! 3 bolts, DBC belay. Either abseil off, traverse off to the right, or continue up the gentle arete to the very top.


 Disintegration of the Persistence Of Memory, 13 13 15m 4
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • 15m
  • 4

The rounded groove just right of “Persistence of Memory”, finishing on the same rib.


 Persistence of Time, 14 14 10m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 10m
  • Trad

An obvious dark arete, right of “Persistence of Memory”. Nice climbing if sometimes fragile. Named after an Athrax Album. Soloed on first ascent, may be worth a clean and a couple of bolts.


 Conquest of Irrational, 14 14 18m 3
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 18m
  • 3
  • Trad

About 20 metres right of “Persistence of Memory”, “Surrealist Wall” juts out, with a large ledge on top. Climb the left hand side of this buttress, up a line of large knobs and ledges. 3 bolts, and 2 thread runners. SBC and fixed peg belay at the back of the ledge. Either scramble off to the left or abseil off.


 Birth of Liquid Desires, 12 12 15m 1
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 15m
  • 1
  • Trad

The arete, right of “Conquest of Irrational”, starting from a higher level. 1 bolt, but use your nuts (#9 Rocks) to get to it. Belay at back of ledge. More difficult than it looks when you are still intoxicated!


 Inventions Of The Monsters, 13 13 15m 1
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • 15m
  • 1
  • Trad

The corner 2 metres right of “Birth of Liquid Desires”. Avoid the dirty finish by traversing left, clip the bolt, and up the arete. Excellent protection in the crack. Belay as for previous climbs.


 Interpretations of Dreams, 16 16 25m 6
3

  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • 6

Start up the face 2 metres right of “Inventions of The Monsters”. Continue up the obvious arete, above, to the top. 6 bolts, fourth has a fixed hanger. Belay anchor is the rock bollard, further back from the cliff, with a bolt to keep the rope from slipping off. The DBC is for top roping, not for belaying from the top.


 Young Virgin Autosodomised By Her Own Chastity, 12 12 18m 4
3

  • P1
  • 12
  • 18m
  • 4

Climb the slabby face, 2 metres right of “Interpretations Of Dreams”, finishing on the ledge. 4 bolts, first 2 do not take hangers, run out between the second and third. DBC belay. Either grovel off the top, or abseil off. Adam McMillan /


 Romper Stomper, 16 16 10m 2
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 2

From the top of Out by Yourself, climb the short face to the left past two bolts. Belay as for “Interpretations of Dreams”.


 Out by Yourself, 12 12 8m 2
0

  • P1
  • 12
  • 8m
  • 2

About 5 metres right of the previous climb is a small rounded face. climb this with 2 bolts for protection. DBC belay. Either scramble off to the right, or climb a second pitch.


 Look Ma No Teeth, 13 13 5m
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • 5m
  • Trad

The short unprotected face above Out by Yourself. Soloed on first ascent. SBC belay.


 Wheelbarrow of Flesh, 18 18 20m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • Trad

Start up the corner 15 metres right of “Out by Yourself”. Continue up the thin seam, to the large crack. Climb the under-side of the crack, until you can pull up on to the small ledge. finish on top of the slab. A full rack is required from #1 RP to #3.5 Friend. Double bolt belay.


 Fear And Trembling, 18 18 16m 4
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 16m
  • 4

The face further right of “Wheelbarrow of Flesh”, past a large ledge. 1 double bolts, 3 single bolts which do not take hangers. DBC belay.


 The Eternal Enigma, 17 17 20m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 6

The rib, 4 metres, right of “Fear And Trembling”, at the left hand base to the descent gully. 6 bolts, first 2 do not take hangers. DBC belay.


 Designer Sports, 24 24 15m 6
0

  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • 6

The bolted overhanging face to the right of “The Eternal Enigma”, on the left side of the descent gully. Start from the right. Continue past 6 bolts with hangers (plus some extra old bolts), on good sinkers. DBC belay.


 Garden Of Earthly Delights, 13 13 6m 2
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • 6m
  • 2

The descent gully, with steps, divides the cliff in two. The climbs are to the right of the gully. Garden Of Earthly Delights (13) 6m The corner on the right hand side of the descent gully. Step out right, and up, just below the top. 2 bolts, double bolt belay.


 Galacidalacidesoxyribonucleicacid, 20 20 12m 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 12m
  • 3

The overhanging arete starting at the base of the descent gully. Start on the left of the arete, finishing on the right. 3 bolts with hangers, double bolt belay.


 Moo With a View, 17 17 12m 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 12m
  • 5

The face right of “Galacidalacidesoxyribonucleicacid”, just past the skeleton of a cow hanging out of the rock. Much easier if the wall to the right is bridged. Well protected with 5 bolts. Double bolt belay.


 Illumined Pleasures, 17 17 12m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 12m
  • 4

Right of “Moo With a View” is a clean arete, just before a crack. Climb the arete using holds on either side. From the top platform, mount the top of “Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep” to belay. 4 bolts without hangers. SBC belay. Originally bolted by Fraser McRobie in 1990.


 Accommodations of Desire, 16 16 12m 2
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 12m
  • 2
  • Trad

The crack between “Illumined Pleasures” and “Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep”. Start up the ramp, then continue up the crack, past the bolts, to the top. A good climb for placing protection from small wires to #4 Friend. Belay as for “Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep”.


 Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep, 18 18 15m 5
3

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 5

The left of two obvious grooves, right of “Accommodations of Desire”. Start up the easy ramp, then climb the groove, finishing on the left. 5 bolts, first does not take a hanger, the rest have fixed hangers. DBC belay. The name is taken from the book that the film “Blade Runner” was based on.


 A Short Walk, 18 18 15m 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • 5

The right of two obvious grooves, right of “Accommodations of Desire”. Start up the easy ramp, as for “Do Androids Dream Of Electric Sheep”, then move right after the first bolt and climb the right-hand groove. 5 bolts, but the first does not take a hanger. DBC belay.


 Nostalgic Echo, 15 15 10m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 10m
  • Trad

Groove and “S” shaped crack, in the middle of a buttress, about half way from the descent gully to the end of the crag. Mixed pro, from #1 RP to #3 Friend. Finish on the large ledge. SBC and fixed peg belay and abseil, as well as a DBC on the ledge above the climb.


 Metamorphosis of Narcissus, 19 19 20m 1
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 20m
  • 1
  • Trad

Start up the easy angle slab to the vertical crack, which veers left from mid-height. Continue to the top past a fixed peg. You have the choice of lowering off the bolt and chain, or grovelling over the top to the belay ledge. 1 bolt, does not take a hanger, 1 peg, DBC belay.


 Morphological Echo, 15 15 20m 1
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 20m
  • 1
  • Trad

The third to last of the main diagonal cracks, on the right of “Surrealist Wall”. Follow the vertical crack until it veers left. Continue straight up to join the next crack at the top. Take good selection of wires. 1 bolt, DBC belay.


 Philosophy of Conquest, 17 17 22m 1
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 22m
  • 1
  • Trad

The crack 3 metres right of “Morphological Echo”, before the chimney. Follow the crack all the way, with the crux at the bulge. Small and medium sized wires give good protection. 1 bolt, DBC belay.


 Dream Caused by the Flight of a Bee Round a Pomegranate a Second Before Awaking, 16 16 15m 6
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • 6
  • Trad

The buttress on the right of “Philosophy of Conquest”. Climb through the groove in the bulge, then continue up, finishing on the right past a crack. 6 bolts, 2 have hangers. Take a #.5 Friend or #7 Rock for the crack. Either lower off the SBC, or scramble round the back of “Philosophy of Conquest” to belay. A consumer route, and Shane’s attempt at the longest route name in the world!


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