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Cosmic Wall

Type
Sector
Part of
Secret Valley

“Cosmic Wall” is a large obvious buttress, and detached pillar, overlooking “The Ravine”, on
its northern side.

Aspect
South
Approach

Access is possible from the first steep grassy slope on the right, after
passing the gate entering “The Ravine”. The next gully is steeper, but gives quicker, and
easier access to the western face of “Cosmic Wall”. Alternatively, walk above
“Assassination Wall” to the top of “Cosmic Wall”, which is marked by a large pine tree. The
descriptions start on the left of the west face, finishing on the right of the east face.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Dash or Crash, 20 20 15m 6
2.01
  • P1
  • 20
  • 15m
  • 6

Follow the central line of bolts up the sheer left section of the wall. 6 bolts with hangers, DBC belay. You had better dash up this one, otherwise your arms will pump and you will crash.
 Mystic Moon, 23 23 12m 4
2.01
  • P1
  • 23
  • 12m
  • 4

Follow the line of bolts up the centre of the wall, about 4 metres right of “Dash or Crash”.
 Killer Bees, 19 19 13m 6
0
  • P1
  • 19
  • 13m
  • 6

To the right of “Mystic of Moon”, at about 4½ metres from the right hand end is a scoop. Climb the left hand edge of the scoop. 6 bolts, crux at the 3rd. A pillar and bolts for belay.

 Larvae Delinquents, 14 14 9m
0
  • P1
  • 14
  • 9m
  • Trad

Climb the right-hand edge of the scoop 2½ metres right of “Killer Bees”. Finish just right of the bees nest. Apparently the bees are usually no problem (except on stinking hot days!). Soloed on first ascent, no bolts yet. You may be able to find your way to the top of the first pitch of “Bananas to the Beat”.

 Shanmir, 18 18 10m 4
1.02
  • P1
  • 18
  • 10m
  • 4

Climb the right hand arete of “Cosmic Wall”. 4 bolts with hangers, DBC on top, and a SBC at the base. Shanmir is Sanskrit for wisdom.

 Bananas to the Beat, 15 15 25m 1
0

The crack that overlooks The Ravine, on the end of the buttress. Scramble
down
past “Shanmir” to get to the start.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 25m
  • 1
  • Trad

Follow the crack that widens from small wires to a chimney. Avoid the chimney by finishing up the face to the right past a single bolt. The balayer should be anchored to small wires. Take small wires and Friends #3 and #4. Also take a hanger for the bolt. DBC belay on the large ledge.

  • P2
  • Trad

Climb the easy short wall above to the top. Medium sized Friends can be useful in the crack.
Comments
UUID
 
dfc57122-15bc-477c-9a49-cf6631da1732