Cosmic Wall

(6 routes)

“Cosmic Wall” is a large obvious buttress, and detached pillar, overlooking “The Ravine”, on
its northern side.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Access: 

Access is possible from the first steep grassy slope on the right, after
passing the gate entering “The Ravine”. The next gully is steeper, but gives quicker, and
easier access to the western face of “Cosmic Wall”. Alternatively, walk above
“Assassination Wall” to the top of “Cosmic Wall”, which is marked by a large pine tree. The
descriptions start on the left of the west face, finishing on the right of the east face.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Dash or Crash 20 15m
2.01
6bolts
Follow the central line of bolts up the sheer left section of the wall. 6 bolts with hangers, DBC belay. You had better dash up this one, otherwise your arms will pump and you will crash.
Allan Cox 12-Dec-97
Mystic Moon 23 12m
2.01
4bolts
Follow the line of bolts up the centre of the wall, about 4 metres right of “Dash or Crash”.
Allan Cox 15-May-97
Killer Bees 19 13m
0
6bolts
To the right of “Mystic of Moon”, at about 4½ metres from the right hand end is a scoop. Climb the left hand edge of the scoop. 6 bolts, crux at the 3rd. A pillar and bolts for belay.
Allan Cox / Claire Wyatt 17-Feb-95
Larvae Delinquents 14 9m
0
Climb the right hand edge of the scoop 2½ metres right of “Killer Bees”. Finish 1 metre right of the bees nest. Apparently the bees are usually no problem (except on stinking hot days!). No bolts yet. You may be able to find your way to the top of the first pitch of “Bananas to the Beat”.
Allan Cox (solo) 19-Dec-94
Shanmir 18 10m
1.02
4bolts
Climb the right hand arete of “Cosmic Wall”. 4 bolts with hangers, DBC on top, and a SBC at the base. Shanmir is Sanskrit for wisdom.
Allan Cox / Adam Saunders 16-Jan-97
Bananas to the Beat 15 , 25m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
The crack that overlooks The Ravine, on the end of the buttress. Scramble down past “Shanmir” to get to the start.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11525m1Yes
 Follow the crack that widens from small wires to a chimney. Avoid the chimney by finishing up the face to the right past a single bolt. The balayer should be anchored to small wires. Take small wires and Friends #3 and #4. Also take a hanger for the bolt. DBC belay on the large ledge.
20mYes
 Climb the easy short wall above to the top. Medium sized Friends can be useful in the crack.
Grant Pearson / Jim Napier, Ken Morison 23-Mar-91