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The Ravine

Type
Part of

Following the track past “Assassination Wall”, round to the right, is the obvious gorge known
as “The Ravine”. This area contains a number of buttresses, on both sides, at various
levels with only a few of the many lines climbed. Routes are described counter-clockwise
on their isolated buttress, starting on the right at the entrance to “The Ravine”. The routes
on “Cosmic Wall” are described separately.

Image
Aspect
South
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Paranoiac-Critical Solitude, 16 16 8m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 16
  • 8m
  • 4

The right hand face of the arete, marking the start of “The Ravine”. Excellent steep climb with heaps of protection and no pocks.


 Expecting Pops, 17 17 10m 4
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • 4

Climbs the front face of the Pinacle 20m up and right of Paranoic-Critical Solution to chains. Named more so because Andrew found out he was to be a grandfather, rather than for the quality of the rock.


 ACCE, 24 24 15m 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 24
  • 15m
  • 6

At the top of the hill directly above “Paranoiac-Critical Solitude” are what look like large boulders past the end of “Assassination Wall”. Access is either up the gully just past “Paranoiac-Critical Solitude”, or over the top of “Assassination Wall”. The larger left hand “boulder” has a viciously overhanging arete on its right hand side. Start right of the arete then swing onto the arete (difficult). Power up the arete on big holds, move right near the top before crossing back (crux) and topping out. Originally cleaned, bolted by Allan Cox before Allan moved to Dunedin. (“Alan showed great vision here as this is one of the best climbs for its grade in the whole area. Cheers Alan I owe you one.” – Cliff)


 Ventura, 19 19 15m 5
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 5

Climb the face to the left of ACCE. 5 bolts with a crux on the first section and then a second by the 4th bolt.


 Stalakdrama, 17 17 20m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 17
  • 20m
  • 7

The main obvious arete about 100 metres up the track, from the gate, on the right. Classic arete climbing, swapping sides of the arete as you go. Abseil down the arete to avoid rope jams.


 Stanztrigger, 17 17 15m
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 15m
  • Trad

Follow the crack on the left of “Stalakdrama”, with the crux at mid height. Protection from a full range of nuts and Friends. Belay as for “Stalakdrama”.


 Felicity, 15 15 8m 4
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 8m
  • 4

Just past the “Stalakdrama” arete is a small face on the left of the road. Climb the centre of the face past the 4 bolts with hangers. Belay off the trees above.


 Cheap at Twice the Price, 15 15 8m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 8m
  • Trad

About 12 metres right of “Felicity” is face with crack running up it. Follow the line of the crack using medium wires for pro. Belay off the gorse bushes.


 Honking the Witch, 17 17 35m 7
2.01

"The Wall That Time Forgot". At the far end of the Ravine, after the track
rises to pass through a gate, walk down towards the large pine tree at the
toe of the large wall ahead to the right. Cross the stream just before the
tree and up the grass at the base of the wall. There are the following
routes, and potential for more. Due to rope drag and stretch it is best that
these routes are not done in one pitch.
Named after a good luck ritual performed by Tauranga climbers heading to the
Waikato, near a certain road junction.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 17m
  • 5

Climb the central rounded groove-line to chains at a small ledge on the left.


  • P2
  • 15
  • 18m
  • 7

Climb the bulging rock just left of the belay then up to another ledge. Move rightwards into the groove left of the prow. Climb this to chains on the right wall at the top (can lower from here). There is another set of chains on the block a few meters higher for a nice belay on top (abseil from here). From both higher sets of chains it is easy to return to the first belay chain. A 50m rope would be ok. A good introduction to multi-pitch climbing.


 The Witchdoctor's, 23 23 35m 9
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 19m
  • 9

Climb the wall right of HTW, which steepens and there are tricky moves entering the niche above the bulge.


  • P2
  • 23
  • 16m
  • 9

Climb up rightwards to the left side of the prow. Move right to the edge, then climb this with difficult moves, which ease with the angle near the top. With rope stretch and no knots in the end of the rope the ground can be reached abseiling on a 60m rope from the top chains.


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