The Ravine

Following the track past “Assassination Wall”, round to the right, is the obvious gorge known
as “The Ravine”. This area contains a number of buttresses, on both sides, at various
levels with only a few of the many lines climbed. Routes are described counter-clockwise
on their isolated buttress, starting on the right at the entrance to “The Ravine”. The routes
on “Cosmic Wall” are described separately.

Type:

Wall

Aspect:

South

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

Link to edit content

Paranoiac-Critical Solitude

The right hand face of the arete, marking the start of “The Ravine”. Excellent steep climb with heaps of protection and no pocks.

Grant Pearson / Fraser McRobie 21-Jan-90

Expecting Pops

10m

Climbs the front face of the Pinacle 20m up and right of Paranoic-Critical Solution to chains. Named more so because Andrew found out he was to be a grandfather, rather than for the quality of the rock.

Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner, Christian Richardson (26/10/14)

ACCE

15m

At the top of the hill directly above “Paranoiac-Critical Solitude” are what look like large boulders past the end of “Assassination Wall”. Access is either up the gully just past “Paranoiac-Critical Solitude”, or over the top of “Assassination Wall”. The larger left hand “boulder” has a viciously overhanging arete on its right hand side. Start right of the arete then swing onto the arete (difficult). Power up the arete on big holds, move right near the top before crossing back (crux) and topping out. Originally cleaned, bolted by Allan Cox before Allan moved to Dunedin. (“Alan showed great vision here as this is one of the best climbs for its grade in the whole area. Cheers Alan I owe you one.” – Cliff)

Cliff Ellery/ Kevin Barratt Jan-98

Ventura

15m

Climb the face to the left of ACCE. 5 bolts with a crux on the first section and then a second by the 4th bolt.

Cliff Ellery/ Kevin Barratt, Craig Martin 27-Aug-00

Stalakdrama

20m

The main obvious arete about 100 metres up the track, from the gate, on the right. Classic arete climbing, swapping sides of the arete as you go. Abseil down the arete to avoid rope jams.

Grant Pearson / Jim Napier 9-Mar-91

Stanztrigger

15m

Follow the crack on the left of “Stalakdrama”, with the crux at mid height. Protection from a full range of nuts and Friends. Belay as for “Stalakdrama”.

Grant Pearson / Adam McMillan 6-Jan-91

Felicity

Just past the “Stalakdrama” arete is a small face on the left of the road. Climb the centre of the face past the 4 bolts with hangers. Belay off the trees above.

Graham Castle / Felicity Castle 13-Apr-97

Cheap at Twice the Price

About 12 metres right of “Felicity” is face with crack running up it. Follow the line of the crack using medium wires for pro. Belay off the gorse bushes.

Allan Cox / Kevin Barratt 27-Apr-97

Honking the Witch

17 ,15

35m

"The Wall That Time Forgot". At the far end of the Ravine, after the track rises to pass through a gate, walk down towards the large pine tree at the toe of the large wall ahead to the right. Cross the stream just before the tree and up the grass at the base of the wall. There are the following routes, and potential for more. Due to rope drag and stretch it is best that these routes are not done in one pitch. Named after a good luck ritual performed by Tauranga climbers heading to the Waikato, near a certain road junction.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	17	17m	5	No
	Climb the central rounded groove-line to chains at a small ledge on the left.
2	15	18m	7	No
	Climb the bulging rock just left of the belay then up to another ledge. Move rightwards into the groove left of the prow. Climb this to chains on the right wall at the top (can lower from here). There is another set of chains on the block a few meters higher for a nice belay on top (abseil from here). From both higher sets of chains it is easy to return to the first belay chain. A 50m rope would be ok. A good introduction to multi-pitch climbing.

Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner, Christian Richardson, Jan 2016

The Witchdoctor's

20 ,23

35m

Climb the wall right of HTW, which steepens and there are tricky moves entering the niche above the bulge.

#	Ewbank	Length	Bolts	Trad
1	20	19m	9	No
	Climb the wall right of HTW, which steepens and there are tricky moves entering the niche above the bulge.
2	23	16m	9	No
	Climb up rightwards to the left side of the prow. Move right to the edge, then climb this with difficult moves, which ease with the angle near the top. With rope stretch and no knots in the end of the rope the ground can be reached abseiling on a 60m rope from the top chains.

Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner 01/02/2016

UUID:

5e1f96a0-3b29-43d8-b17f-774a9d6a5ed1

(10 routes)