The Castle

(10 routes)

Follow the grassy slope to the left (when facing) of “Surrealist Wall” until you cross a col, and see a large rock standing
on its own down the other side, known as “The Castle”. This is well worth checking out while in the “Surrealist
Wall” area, and (still) has the potential for more routes. Faces in all directions.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Deepwood Motte 14 9m
1.02
3bolts
Start at the highest point behind this face, left of TKR. Step into the base of the groove, then move right onto the wall, and climb up with a mantle move back into the groove. The easiest way to the top. Belay as for TKR.
Christian Richardson, Dave Offner, Andrew Wilkinson (06/12/15)
Three Kings Road 17 10m
0
5bolts
Start by pulling over the bulging rock left of Sneaking Up the Sewer, then into the groove, and the slab above. Chains set back beyond the block on the ledge.
Christian Richardson, Dave Offner, Andrew Wilkinson (26/10/14)
Sneaking up the Sewer 20 10m
1.02
5bolts
One of the many ways to capture a castle. The bolted scoop left of Joyous Gard, then the wall above.
Andrew Wilkinson and Dave Offner (26/10/14)
Joyous Gard 24 10m
1.02
4bolts
Climbs the steep rib left of Great Mission chimney, on the NW face. Pull over the initial bulge and the crux is passing the third bolt.
Dave Offner and Andrew Wilkinson (10/01/16)
Great Mission 13 20m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the chimney that splits “The Castle” in two. Unless you are small, start up the lower side. A couple of large Friends are useful for protection.
Grant Pearson / Jeremy Bainbridge-Smith 2-Mar-91
Lost Again 18 20m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Start up the rib, to the right of the start of “Great Mission”, to the first ledge. Clip the bolt, then step left and climb the arete to another ledge. Either clip the other bolt and continue straight up the overhang (About 18) or, more easily, move left and up the left hand arete with a thread runner. 2 bolts. (Retrobolted with three bolts with hangers by Dave Offner and Andrew Wilkinson 10/01/16)
Grant Pearson / Jim Napier 9-Mar-91
Krak Des Chevaliers 20 18m
3
6bolts
On the East Face of the Castle. Start at the right arete, climb leftwards to the runnel above the overhang, and then up to and over the next bulge to the final section and chains.
Dave Offner and Andrew Wilkinson (03/04/15)
Sleeping Giant Face 20 18m
2.01
7bolts
The South Face, round to the right of Lost Again. Climb the initial wall to the groove/ramp (the Giants Nose). Bridge, then the headwall on pockets to chains.
Andrew Wilkinson and Dave Offner (17/10/15)
The King of the Castle 20 20m
2.01
8bolts
Start a few meters right of Sleeping Giant Face. Climb up then diagonally rightwards to top on the highest tower, with fun finish to chains.
Andrew Wilkinson (03/04/15)
Siege Engine 18 11m
1.02
4bolts
50m Beyond the Castle. is an embracing semi- tubular feature. Climb the left side at 18 to chains. The right variant (Siege Tower) was cleaned and bolted ground up by AW as the gorse around the back was thought best avoided, grade 16.
Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner, Christian Richardson (05/12/15)