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The Castle

Type
Part of

Follow the grassy slope to the left (when facing) of “Surrealist Wall” until you cross a col, and see a large rock standing
on its own down the other side, known as “The Castle”. This is well worth checking out while in the “Surrealist
Wall” area, and (still) has the potential for more routes. Faces in all directions.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Deepwood Motte, 14 14 9m 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 14
  • 9m
  • 3

Start at the highest point behind this face, left of TKR. Step into the base of the groove, then move right onto the wall, and climb up with a mantle move back into the groove. The easiest way to the top. Belay as for TKR.


 Three Kings Road, 17 17 10m 5
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 10m
  • 5

Start by pulling over the bulging rock left of Sneaking Up the Sewer, then into the groove, and the slab above. Chains set back beyond the block on the ledge.


 Sneaking up the Sewer, 20 20 10m 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • 5

One of the many ways to capture a castle. The bolted scoop left of Joyous Gard, then the wall above.


 Joyous Gard, 24 24 10m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 24
  • 10m
  • 4

Climbs the steep rib left of Great Mission chimney, on the NW face. Pull over the initial bulge and the crux is passing the third bolt.


 Great Mission, 13 13 20m
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • 20m
  • Trad

Climb the chimney that splits “The Castle” in two. Unless you are small, start up the lower side. A couple of large Friends are useful for protection.


 Lost Again, 18 18 20m 2
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 2
  • Trad

Start up the rib, to the right of the start of “Great Mission”, to the first ledge. Clip the bolt, then step left and climb the arete to another ledge. Either clip the other bolt and continue straight up the overhang (About 18) or, more easily, move left and up the left hand arete with a thread runner. 2 bolts. (Retrobolted with three bolts with hangers by Dave Offner and Andrew Wilkinson 10/01/16)


 Krak Des Chevaliers, 20 20 18m 6
3

  • P1
  • 20
  • 18m
  • 6

On the East Face of the Castle. Start at the right arete, climb leftwards to the runnel above the overhang, and then up to and over the next bulge to the final section and chains.


 Sleeping Giant Face, 20 20 18m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 18m
  • 7

The South Face, round to the right of Lost Again. Climb the initial wall to the groove/ramp (the Giants Nose). Bridge, then the headwall on pockets to chains.


 The King of the Castle, 20 20 20m 8
2.01

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 8

Start a few meters right of Sleeping Giant Face. Climb up then diagonally rightwards to top on the highest tower, with fun finish to chains.


 Siege Engine, 18 18 11m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • 11m
  • 4

50m Beyond the Castle. is an embracing semi- tubular feature. Climb the left side at 18 to chains. The right variant (Siege Tower) was cleaned and bolted ground up by AW as the gorse around the back was thought best avoided, grade 16.


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