Mt Haast

(24 routes)

The three peaks of Mt Haast are actually just off the Main Divide, at the head of the Fox Glacier.

-43.559060570000, 170.177879330000
H36 820 349
BX16 721 732
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
High Peak from Marcel Col 2+
Follow an easy snow ridge and turn west off the Main Divide, along a rock ridge to the summit. A regular descent route. Despite the easy access, watch for loose rock late in summer
Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Feb 1907
South Face (Plateau Face) 4+
At least three variations exist, all commencing from the névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon. Climb 400m of steepish ice and then, depending on conditions and inclination, either left through the ice bulge, directly up through the icecliff, or right via ice gullies through a rock band.
Mike Andrews, Colin Dodge, D Warren, Jan 1972.
Dixon-Haast Ridge 3
From the summit of Mt Dixon follow the rotten rock ridge over towers, usually turning difficulties on the east side.
Harry Ayres, Bruce Gillies, Feb 1953.
From Pioneer Pass 3-
Ascend the prominent couloir 150m west of the crest of Pioneer Pass, reaching the Main Divide about 100m east of where the Haast massif abuts the Divide.
Mavis Davidson, Rod Hewitt, A F Reid, Jan 1955.
North Spur 3
Gained from a quarter of the way up the route "from Pioneer Pass" Climbing is steepish without being technical. The rock is fairly sound to begin with and very shattered towards the top.
Jack Murrell, Bev Noble, Jan 1973.
Gully to the right of the North Spur 4+
Ascend the next obvious gully right of the "From Pioneer Pass" Route then up mixed ground, the rock being the more difficult.
John Goulstone, Mike Rockell, Aug 1982.
Traverse of the three peaks 4
This route involves one of the West Peak ascent routes and then traverses the Middle and High Peaks. A pleasant climb made quite committing because of its length. The rock near the Middle and High Peaks is loose. A classic.
H Bohny, T Sidler, Jan 1955. Hotline IV 3+,IV 4 M4,IV 4+ WI3 M4,IV 3+ WI2,IV 5+ M5,IV 3,IV 3 445m
On the East Face of Mt Haast, start right of the triangle (Little Big Wall). Best climbed after a good freeze and/ or a cycle of melting to get rid of any hang fire or loose wet avalanche danger. This is a steep solar aspect getting sun for most of the day, hence the name 'Hotline'. This route is as close to spur 3 (as per 2018 guidebook) as possible and is situated between route 11.81 and 11.83.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Free climbed first 100m on first ascent.


Left through mixed terrain to gain steep ice at obvious gully. Belay on right to avoid hang fire.


Steepening ice with M4+ move to exit and belay


Up steep snow/ ice trending left to prominent spur


Up steeping snow/ ice ramp trending right until it steepens and deal to the short vertical and overhanging rock/rime/ ice bulges. Relents to find a good rock bollard belay on spur. Beware loose rock through steep section.


Follow Spur/ ridgeline until it steepens and overhangs. Step left and downclimb or rappel 3-4m


Follow exit gully to reach ridgeline. First ascent party continued to summit of High Peak via the complementary mixed ground (70m) facing north, at approx M4.

Gavin Lang, Ben Sanford 3rd Sept 2019
Alex Palman


Type Title Link to edit content
Mountain Middle Pk (4 routes)
Mountain West Pk (8 routes)
Face (Alpine) Marcel Face (4 routes)


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