Mt Haast

(23 routes)

The three peaks of Mt Haast are actually just off the Main Divide, at the head of the Fox Glacier.

-43.559060570000, 170.177879330000
H36 820 349
BX16 721 732
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
High Peak from Marcel Col 2+
Follow an easy snow ridge and turn west off the Main Divide, along a rock ridge to the summit. A regular descent route. Despite the easy access, watch for loose rock late in summer
Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Feb 1907
South Face (Plateau Face) 4+
At least three variations exist, all commencing from the névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon. Climb 400m of steepish ice and then, depending on conditions and inclination, either left through the ice bulge, directly up through the icecliff, or right via ice gullies through a rock band.
Mike Andrews, Colin Dodge, D Warren, Jan 1972.
Dixon-Haast Ridge 3
From the summit of Mt Dixon follow the rotten rock ridge over towers, usually turning difficulties on the east side.
Harry Ayres, Bruce Gillies, Feb 1953.
From Pioneer Pass 3-
Ascend the prominent couloir 150m west of the crest of Pioneer Pass, reaching the Main Divide about 100m east of where the Haast massif abuts the Divide.
Mavis Davidson, Rod Hewitt, A F Reid, Jan 1955.
North Spur 3
Gained from a quarter of the way up the route "from Pioneer Pass" Climbing is steepish without being technical. The rock is fairly sound to begin with and very shattered towards the top.
Jack Murrell, Bev Noble, Jan 1973.
Gully to the right of the North Spur 4+
Ascend the next obvious gully right of the "From Pioneer Pass" Route then up mixed ground, the rock being the more difficult.
John Goulstone, Mike Rockell, Aug 1982.
Traverse of the three peaks 4
This route involves one of the West Peak ascent routes and then traverses the Middle and High Peaks. A pleasant climb made quite committing because of its length. The rock near the Middle and High Peaks is loose. A classic.
H Bohny, T Sidler, Jan 1955.
Alex Palman


Type Title Edit link
Mountain Middle Pk (4 routes)
Mountain West Pk (8 routes)
Face (Alpine) Marcel Face (4 routes)


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