Marcel Face

(4 routes)

The south-western aspect of Haast offers a good range of gullies that are usually well iced through to December. There have been several harder routes put up on the Marcel side since the 1970s, however only some have been recorded.

Face (Alpine)
South West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
West-Middle Peak Col 3
Ascend from the Marcel Glacier onto the Marcel Face. up steep snow into the righthand of two narrow couloirs leading to the col. Then on up the main ridge to the summit.
Phil Houghton, D G Herron, A R Page, Richard Tornquist, Jan 1959.
Chowdhury/ Kane 4-
Start below high peak but trend right arriving about 50m east of the High Peak summit. Involves several short but steep steps. Five pitches.
(Possibly) Dave Chowdhury, Brendan Kane, Dec 1999.
Valentine Gully 5-
This five pitch route takes a prominent narrow gully almost directly below the high peak. It tops out between high peak and the next obvious prominence to the east (crux at the bottom). Descend to Marcel col.
Dave Langrish, Lyn Bowering, 14 Feb 1987.
Andrews/ Warren/ Dodge
Gully between high peak and divide peak.
Mike Andrews, D Warren, Colin Dodge, Dec 1972. Variation: A Smith, Wilfrid Lammerink, Jan 1973.
Alex Palman

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