Mt Haast North Pk

Type

Altitude

3065m

Part of

This is predominantly a rock peak with plenty of scope for new variations. The North Peak of Haast has been incorrectly known for a long time as the West Peak of Mt Haast. The three peaks of Haast run perpendicular to the Main Divide, and most people assume the Main Divide runs north to south. Not always...

Aspect

North East

Lat/lon

-43.55524,170.17658, NZ Topo Map

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
11.85	11.85Traverse of the three peaks (‘Haast GT’), IV,4	IV,4	0m	0
This route involves one of the North Peak ascent routes and then traverses the Middle and High Peaks. A pleasant climb made quite committing because of its length. The rock near the Middle and High Peaks is loose. A classic traverse, first completed without crampons. P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 4
11.86	11.86North East Rib (Spur 5), IV,4,4-	IV,4,4-	0m	0
500m of climbing on four rock buttresses with linking snow ridges to reach a gap south of North Peak. The lower buttress is comprised of solid rock, the second is steep rotten rock, and the remainder good rock. P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 4 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-
11.87	11.87Atkinson-Hall Route, IV,4+,16	IV,4+,16	0m	0
P1 16 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 4+ Ascend the ice gully beneath North Peak with a rock crux (15/16) at two-thirds height. The top section is on generally poor rock. It has been climbed in winter as a mixed route.
11.88	11.88Natural Gas, III,5+	III,5+	0m	0
Starts left of the large corner on the left side of the North East Spur. Up the face on ice leads until steep mixed ground is encountered. The first ascentionists abandoned the climb here by traversing to the North East Spur; the route is awaiting a finish to the North Peak. The routeis best climbed when the face is heavily rimed. Choose a not too hot day, as the face gets a lot of sun and the rime ice can fall down. Dave’s comment on the route was ‘harder than the Central Gully on Douglas.’ Named after the LPG gas heater flown in to Pioneer Hut for the trip. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 5+
11.89	11.89Nash-Aimer Route, III,4+,17	III,4+,17	0m	0
P1 17 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 4+ Trad A face route that starts between the Atkinson-Hall and North Spur routes. From the bottom, move gradually left until the North East Spur route is visible, then move right over chossy ground. Continue straight up, climbing 20m of superb exposed slab en route, to join the North East Spur route where it flattens, and then continue to the summit. Red rock provides cruxes of 16/17 and good protection.
11.90	11.90North East Spur, III,3+	III,3+	0m	0
Starts just right of Nash-Aimer. Traverse right across a ledge low on the spur and then ascend the rib until the large gully on the right meets the top of the rib. Climb up the ridge crest on good rock. A recommended variation at 2/3 height is to climb the face on the right, on excellent rock. Higher up, the ridge flattens out before rising again to the summit. Descended by the same route. Historically referred to as the West Ridge. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3+
11.91	11.91Couloir Route, III,3	III,3	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3 Ascend the prominent couloir to the right of the North East Spur. At the top of the couloir, turn left to join the North East Spur route.
11.92	11.92North Ridge, III,3+	III,3+	0m	0
Ascend the rib to the right of the North East Couloir to gain the ridge proper, continue toa prominent gendarme (the top of Sun Circle), which can be turned on the north or traversed, and then up the face where the North East Spur joins the ridge, to the summit. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3+
11.93	11.93Eurostar, II,5,18	II,5,18	0m	0
P1 18 Alpine (Commitment) II Alpine (Technical) 5 Trad Amongst the ramparts of Mt Haast, a stellar 60m pinnacle. Good pro small to med wires & cams.
11.94	11.94 Forgotten Corner, III,4+	III,4+	0m	0
Climb a prominent corner to the right of Eurostar for three pitches of good rock, and then seven pitches on deteriorating quality rock (crux 16), to reach the gendarme of Sun Circle. Abseil the face to the climber’s right of Sun Circle. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 4+
11.95	11.95Sun Circle, II,4+,17	II,4+,17	0m	0
Climbs the left edge of a large slab just up and right from Eurostar, to the left of a large gully. The route begins from a block of rock adjacent to where a schrund usually forms. Six pitches of steep climbing (crux 17) on some quality rock up to the top of a prominent gendarme. Abseil directly back down the face. P1 17 Alpine (Commitment) II Alpine (Technical) 4+ Trad
	Golden Eye, 20	20	0m	0
A route to the right of Sun Circle, effectively following the abseil line. 5 Pitches. P1 20
11.96	11.96North Couloir, III,3,3+	III,3,3+	0m	0
A small couloir separating the extremities of the ridge, eventually leading to the North Ridge. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+ A small couloir separating the north-west extremities of the ridge
11.97	11.97North West Toe, III,3	III,3	0m	0
A good alternative start to the North Ridge. Access the spur from the left and scramble up to join Route 11.92. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3

Images

Comments

This place appears in

Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018

Buy this guidebook

Attribution

1.Aoraki Tai-Poutini Guidebook
2.Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken - Topo

UUID

d9d141df-d46b-4ffc-96fc-48c21adcdbb7