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Mt Haast Middle Pk

Type

Altitude

3099m

Part of

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality	Alert	Operations
11.82	11.82From High Peak, III,3,3+	III,3,3+	0m		0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 3 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+ An exposed scramble over loose rock that can be complicated by icy conditions.
11.83	11.833/4 Couloir, IV,3	IV,3	0m		0
The prominent couloir on the East Face between Spur 3 and Spur 4, to the left of the Middle Peak, has been used for ascent and descent. The route comes out 80m east of the Middle Peak. P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 3
	Vanilla Ice, III,5,A5,WI4,M3	III,5,A5,WI4,M3	0m		0
Follow up obvious ice line on the East Face, then up gully to mixed terrain to summit. P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Mt Cook) 5 Aid A5 Water Ice WI4 Mixed M3 Beautiful WI4 pitch.
11.84	11.84Spur 4 (North East Ridge), IV,3+	IV,3+	0m		0
A direct climb up a series of steps on the rib to reach Middle Peak. The lower and middle sections of the rib are somewhat loose. Crux pitches of grade 12 but nowhere very difficult unless iced up. P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 3+
	Middle-High Peak Col, 3-	3-	0m		0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3- Ascend from the upper Marcel Glacier via a snow couloir.
	Psychoterratica, III,5+,M5	III,5+,M5	200m		0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 5+ Mixed M5 200m Trad A fantastic, fun line, with many styles packed into a small space. Transitions from steep ice through to a chockstone/ chimney, finishing on some steep, mix terrain....and an easy summit ridge line to the top.

Comments

This place appears in

Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018

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UUID

5cc8c1ce-c098-4e0c-964f-ef6d0d496c9b