Taiaroa Pk

(17 routes)

Taiaroa Pk is easily climbed. The real rewards for climbers lie on a complex assemblage of bullet-hard buttresses of orange rock that dominate the northern, western and southern aspects.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2154m
Lat/Lon: 
-44.680190000000, 168.062243000000
NZMS260: 
D40 170 023
Topo50: 
CB09 069 406
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Original Route
0
From the col between the high and south peaks it's a short scramble, mostly on the east side of the ridge.
A M Green, Jim Milne, Richard Stewart, January 1959
North Buttress
0
Begin from the col between Taiaroa and the Mighty Dur. Two rope lengths at the base of the buttress then scrambling to the summit.
Ken Calder, Bruce Clark, Pete Glasson, Al Smith, March 1973
North West Pillar II 22 , 18 , 18 450m
2.01
wire representing trad
The massive pillar on the north end of the west face: a series of towers. Awesome! At the base of the pillar is a large roof. The orange wall below this is split by a diagonal crack running R-L. Scramble/pitch to the grassy ledge below this. The first crux pitch could possibly be avoided by scooting up to the right of the overhang and chimney to the base of the next tower. Great looking walls on pitches 3, 5, and 6 (possibly grade 20/21?) could be climbed instead of the easier arête.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
122II40mYes
 Climb the diagonal over a wee roof to a step left to belay in or under alcove.
21850mYes
 Bust out right and steeply up to belay at blocks with rock drawbridge below the next tower.
318360mYes
 Pitches 3–9 continue up the pillar.
Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 7 February 2016
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies

Places

Type Title Edit link
Face (Alpine) West Face (5 routes)
Mountain South Pk (3 routes)
Mountain Mighty Dur (3 routes)
Mountain Petit Dur (3 routes)