West Face | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

The West Face offers good climbing on excellent rock just a short distance from Crampon Pass. Descend to the col between the High and South Peak, and then either back to the pass or down snow slopes to the northeast.

Aspect

West

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
1	1Russian Gas Pedal Start, II,21	II,21	0m	2.01
P1 21 Alpine (Commitment) II Trad Three pitches, roughly, of steep, technical and sometimes run out climbing. Start down and left of the Roshambo corner; climb into it and finish up that route.
2	2Russian Gas Pedal Direct, II,20	II,20	0m	2.01
P1 20 Alpine (Commitment) II Keep climbing up the wall for 4 pitches (in total) rather than heading right to Ro-sham-bo corner. Extra pitches are grade 19-20. Join Ro-sham-bo where the angle eases off for the final 4 pitches.
3	3Ro-sham-bo, II,18	II,18	0m	2.01
P1 18 Alpine (Commitment) II 6 pitches: 17, 18, 16, 17, 16, 12. Take a series of small crack systems in the middle of the face mid-way between the two obvious corners. Starting from a low ledge just off the glacier follow a corner for 150m (crux) to a large pedestal and ledge. Another 200m of face climbing leads to the ridge just left of the summit.
4	4Original Route		0m	1.02
P1 A 300m route on good rock. Take the dominant right-hand crack/corner system as seen from Crampon Pass.
8	8Hōri, II,18	II,18	250m	0
Start at the obvious left-leaning crack. Through a small roof (crux), straighten up, weave up the buttress sticking to the arête wherever possible. Tops out directly on the high peak. P1 18 Alpine (Commitment) II 250m Trad

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Comments

Attribution

Craig Jefferies

UUID

0d0f1060-49a7-45ee-869e-1593c0ddb374