West Face

(5 routes)

The West Face offers good climbing on excellent rock just a short distance from Crampon Pass. Descend to the col between the High and South Peak, and then either back to the pass or down snow slopes to the northeast.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Russian Gas Pedal Start II 21
2.01
wire representing trad 1
Three pitches, roughly, of steep, technical and sometimes run out climbing. Start down and left of the Roshambo corner; climb into it and finish up that route.
James Spiers, Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, February 2013
2 Russian Gas Pedal Direct II 20
2.01
Keep climbing up the wall for 4 pitches (in total) rather than heading right to Ro-sham-bo corner. Extra pitches are grade 19-20. Join Ro-sham-bo where the angle eases off for the final 4 pitches.
Kester Brown, Stephen Skelton, Feb 2014.
3 Ro-sham-bo II 18
2.01
6 pitches: 17, 18, 16, 17, 16, 12. Take a series of small crack systems in the middle of the face mid-way between the two obvious corners. Starting from a low ledge just off the glacier follow a corner for 150m (crux) to a large pedestal and ledge. Another 200m of face climbing leads to the ridge just left of the summit.
Brigid Allan, Craig Jefferies, Keith Riley, February 2000
4 Original Route
1.02
A 300m route on good rock. Take the dominant right-hand crack/corner system as seen from Crampon Pass.
Warwick Anderson, John Youngson, Neal Whiston, January 1977
8 Hōri II 18 250m
0
wire representing trad
Start at the obvious left-leaning crack. Through a small roof (crux), straighten up, weave up the buttress sticking to the arête wherever possible. Tops out directly on the high peak.
Troy Mattingley, Michael Eatson. Feb 2018
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies