West Face

(5 routes)

The West Face offers good climbing on excellent rock just a short distance from Crampon Pass. Descend to the col between the High and South Peak, and then either back to the pass or down snow slopes to the northeast.

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Russian Gas Pedal Start II 21
wire representing trad 1
Three pitches, roughly, of steep, technical and sometimes run out climbing. Start down and left of the Roshambo corner; climb into it and finish up that route.
James Spiers, Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, February 2013
2 Russian Gas Pedal Direct II 20
Keep climbing up the wall for 4 pitches (in total) rather than heading right to Ro-sham-bo corner. Extra pitches are grade 19-20. Join Ro-sham-bo where the angle eases off for the final 4 pitches.
Kester Brown, Stephen Skelton, Feb 2014.
3 Ro-sham-bo II 18
6 pitches: 17, 18, 16, 17, 16, 12. Take a series of small crack systems in the middle of the face mid-way between the two obvious corners. Starting from a low ledge just off the glacier follow a corner for 150m (crux) to a large pedestal and ledge. Another 200m of face climbing leads to the ridge just left of the summit.
Brigid Allan, Craig Jefferies, Keith Riley, February 2000
4 Original Route
A 300m route on good rock. Take the dominant right-hand crack/corner system as seen from Crampon Pass.
Warwick Anderson, John Youngson, Neal Whiston, January 1977
8 Hōri II 18 250m
wire representing trad
Start at the obvious left-leaning crack. Through a small roof (crux), straighten up, weave up the buttress sticking to the arête wherever possible. Tops out directly on the high peak.
Troy Mattingley, Michael Eatson. Feb 2018
Craig Jefferies