The West Face offers good climbing on excellent rock just a short distance from Crampon Pass. Descend to the col between the High and South Peak, and then either back to the pass or down snow slopes to the northeast.
Type:
Face (Alpine)
Aspect:
West
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Edit link | ||
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| 1 | Russian Gas Pedal Start | II 21 |
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Three pitches, roughly, of steep, technical and sometimes run out climbing. Start down and left of the Roshambo corner; climb into it and finish up that route.
James Spiers, Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, February 2013
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| 2 | Russian Gas Pedal Direct | II 20 |
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Keep climbing up the wall for 4 pitches (in total) rather than heading right to Ro-sham-bo corner. Extra pitches are grade 19-20. Join Ro-sham-bo where the angle eases off for the final 4 pitches.
Kester Brown, Stephen Skelton, Feb 2014.
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| 3 | Ro-sham-bo | II 18 |
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6 pitches: 17, 18, 16, 17, 16, 12. Take a series of small crack systems in the middle of the face mid-way between the two obvious corners. Starting from a low ledge just off the glacier follow a corner for 150m (crux) to a large pedestal and ledge. Another 200m of face climbing leads to the ridge just left of the summit.
Brigid Allan, Craig Jefferies, Keith Riley, February 2000
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| 4 | Original Route |
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A 300m route on good rock. Take the dominant right-hand crack/corner system as seen from Crampon Pass.
Warwick Anderson, John Youngson, Neal Whiston, January 1977
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| 8 | Hōri | II 18 | 250m |
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Start at the obvious left-leaning crack. Through a small roof (crux),
straighten up, weave up the buttress sticking to the arête wherever
possible. Tops out directly on the high peak.
Troy Mattingley, Michael Eatson. Feb 2018
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Attribution:
Craig Jefferies
