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Mighty Dur

Type
Mountain
Altitude
1828m
Part of
Taiaroa Pk

The Mighty Dur is the knob of hard red rock at the base of Taiaroa’s North Ridge.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Yea, Nah, Dur!, I,24 I,24 0m
3

P1 (14) 40m Up and right on the slab will take you to the beginning of the
left leaning crack system
P2 (23) 35m Get onto the orange rock and follow 'the line' to a hanging belay
below the first overlap
P3 (24) 25m Pull the lip then power up to another hanging belay on the left
hand side of the 2nd overlap
P4 (20) 15m Takes you to a hanging belay before the grey rock
P5 (20) 40m Pull up, over and into a juggy vegetated groove that will lead
you to the summit
One rap off the south side will get you to the col below Taiaroa.

  • P1
  • 24
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Trad

The east face of the Mighty Dur
 Left Arete, II,19 II,19 300m
3
  • P1
  • 19
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • 300m
  • Trad

Seven superb pitches with everything you could wish for and more including: a tussock bollard belay; beautiful slabs; knife edge aretes; wild exposure; and a committing run out to finish. Descend by scrambling down the South side with one abseil to reach slabs to the east.
 Dur-rich-t, I,22 I,22 350m
3

The right arete of the Dur. Sensational climbing on immaculate rock.

  • P1
  • 19
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • 60m
  • Trad

Start just R of the large pale block at horizontal fault 40m right of the corner. Diagonal up and R through 2 laps and between 2 obvious tussock patches to belay on top of R hand tussock patch.

  • P2
  • 18
  • 40m
  • Trad

Diagonal back L to belay beneath arête.

  • P3
  • 22
  • 50m
  • Trad

The best pitch ever. Up on L side of arête to start, swinging round to R at 5m. Weave up and L on superb rock and gear, to the only obvious and outrageous break through the roof just R of arête. Up to 1st suitable ledge on R. (Or stay left closer to arête?)

  • P4
  • 18
  • 200m
  • Trad

Pitches 4–7 continue up the arete to a staunch finish.
Comments
UUID
 
8edf315d-32a6-4bfd-aad4-6d93f7d43691