Mighty Dur

(3 routes)

The Mighty Dur is the knob of hard red rock at the base of Taiaroa’s North Ridge.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Yea, Nah, Dur! I 24
wire representing trad
P1 (14) 40m Up and right on the slab will take you to the beginning of the left leaning crack system P2 (23) 35m Get onto the orange rock and follow 'the line' to a hanging belay below the first overlap P3 (24) 25m Pull the lip then power up to another hanging belay on the left hand side of the 2nd overlap P4 (20) 15m Takes you to a hanging belay before the grey rock P5 (20) 40m Pull up, over and into a juggy vegetated groove that will lead you to the summit One rap off the south side will get you to the col below Taiaroa.
Zac Orme, Troy Mattingley Feb 2015
Left Arete II 19 300m
wire representing trad
Seven superb pitches with everything you could wish for and more including: a tussock bollard belay; beautiful slabs; knife edge aretes; wild exposure; and a committing run out to finish. Descend by scrambling down the South side with one abseil to reach slabs to the east.
James Spiers, Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, 6 February 2013
Dur-rich-t I 19 , 18 , 22 , 18 350m
wire representing trad
The right arete of the Dur. Sensational climbing on immaculate rock.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Start just R of the large pale block at horizontal fault 40m right of the corner. Diagonal up and R through 2 laps and between 2 obvious tussock patches to belay on top of R hand tussock patch.


Diagonal back L to belay beneath arête.


The best pitch ever. Up on L side of arête to start, swinging round to R at 5m. Weave up and L on superb rock and gear, to the only obvious and outrageous break through the roof just R of arête. Up to 1st suitable ledge on R. (Or stay left closer to arête?)


Pitches 4–7 continue up the arete to a staunch finish.

Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 8 February 2016