Darran Mountains

D40 141 943
CB09 040 325
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
Natural gear required
  Climb the waterfall wall on the left, traverse right and up a rock rib to the snowfields.

Ralph Miller, Lloyd Warburton, Dick Wood, 1957.

17 , 17 , 12 , 17
Natural gear required
  1. Starting from the snowfield above Black Lake. The lower pitches involve sustained grade 17 climbing. The notch along the ridge may require a rappel. A 300m climb on good rock. Cross schrund to belay on the slab. Work your way up the slabs to belay on the ledge at the top of the right- facing corner.
  2. Avoid the vegetated right-facing corner by going left and over bulge. Climb run-out face to groove that cuts across the face.
  3. Nice climbing in an easy groove to belay on a broad ledge.
  4. Hand traverse across horizontal crack in wall above ledge, then up face to easier ground on ridge proper. Some nice easy pitches lead to an 8m notch ( mostly rapped), move left around onto RH side of summit pyramid to where the East Ridge joins the the Couloir Route, which can be easily down climbed on slabs and the snow, or continue up edge of summit pyramid and over to the summit of Talbot. There is a RH variant at the start that takes the RH facing corner crack just down from the snow arete.

Bill Blee, Ralph Miller, Mar 1957.

Natural gear required
  The gully on the north side of the East Ridge offers an easy ascent and descent early in the summer, but the snow slope soon breaks up to expose steep slabby rock above the schrund. The rock on the East Ridge offers an alternative if the snow is broken. The original party descended the Traverse Pass route.

George Moir, Ken Roberts, Harry Slater, Bob Sinclair, 1924

  From Gertrude Saddle follow slabs and snowfields to the pass. An easy route to the summits of Talbot and Macpherson. Gully left of Traverse Pass This is a loose rock couloir to the ridge beyond the steps above Traverse Pass.
Craig Jefferies
This place appears in: 
100 Peaks
The Darran Mountains: an alpine and rock climbing guide


Face East Face (Summit Pyramid) (10 routes)
Face North Face (5 routes)
Face South Face (8 routes)
Wall Psychopath Wall (4 routes)
Crag Crag of Misfit Mascots (4 routes)
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