North Face | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

Aspect

North

Approach

The north face is best accessed from Gertrude Saddle. Ascend tussock and snow slopes toward Traverse Pass, traversing into the face where possible.

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
10	10Nowhere Man, 18	18	0m	1.02
P1 18 Trad Six pitches. Take the obvious crack line directly right of the red wall into a niche at the top. Scramble up for one pitch and finish up Smithereens.
11	11Clearing of Misty Minds, 24	24	0m	0
P1 19 Trad Climb the off-width: needs big gear. P2 24 Trad Take the overhanging flake corner just left of the snow patch; at the top of the flake move left following a break. Continue along the break or mantle to next break, move left and up the slab above to below the overhang. P3 20 Trad Move left below the overhang and up the middle of the slab.
12	12Smithereens, 17	17	0m	1.02
P1 17 Trad The north-east pillar direct to the summit. Start up a crack-line to the right of the red wall passing the large snowfield on its left side, then follow cracks and chimneys to the summit.
13	13Neal's Climb, 18	18	0m	1.02
P1 18 Trad 500m to the right of the start of Smithereens, follow a crack and groove up the centre of the sweep of grey slabs to the ridge.
14	14Bosshard Ritchie, 17	17	0m	0
P1 17 Trad Three pitches on the right-hand end of beautiful brown slabs. Climbs right facing flake system then slabs and crack to the major ledge above slab.

Comments

Attribution

Craig Jefferies

UUID

b92ce5d5-293e-4343-96d2-d224dea90e20