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East Ridge

Natural pro required
First ascent
Bill Blee, Ralph Miller, Mar 1957.
Located on
Topo ref

  • P1
  • 17
  • 300m
  • Trad

Starting from the snowfield above Black Lake. The lower pitches involve sustained grade 17 climbing. The notch along the ridge may require a rappel. A 300m climb on good rock. Cross schrund to belay on the slab. Work your way up the slabs to belay on the ledge at the top of the right- facing corner.

  • P2
  • 17
  • Trad

Avoid the vegetated right-facing corner by going left and over bulge. Climb run-out face to groove that cuts across the face.

  • P3
  • 12
  • Trad

Nice climbing in an easy groove to belay on a broad ledge.

  • P4
  • 17
  • Trad

Hand traverse across horizontal crack in wall above ledge, then up face to easier ground on ridge proper. Some nice easy pitches lead to an 8m notch ( mostly rapped), move left around onto RH side of summit pyramid to where the East Ridge joins the the Couloir Route, which can be easily down climbed on slabs and the snow, or continue up edge of summit pyramid and over to the summit of Talbot. There is a RH variant at the start that takes the RH facing corner crack just down from the snow arete.