Summit Pyramid | ClimbNZ

Type

Face

Part of

Mt Talbot

This is the high triangular face above Talbot’s south-eastern snow-field, visible above Homer Hut.

Aspect

East

Approach

Walk up the Gertrude Valley to Black Lake, cross the outlet of the lake (usually no more than a large jump) then continue up to the toe of the East Ridge. Traverse across the snowfield until below the face. In late summer the snowfield becomes broken by numerous large crevasses making access to the Summit Pyramid difficult. Crampons may be required.
In Winter
To access the Summit Pyramid either climb the Notch Route out of the valley or walk up the Gertrude Valley, traversing across exposed snow slopes below the east ridge to the base of the wall.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
1	1JH Line		0m	0
P1 Trad The rock deteriorates towards the top. Finish on the South Ridge, just a short scramble to the summit.
2	2Pharaoh, 17	17	0m	0
P1 17 Trad Climb the first three pitches of Sphinx then left along a ledge. Climb a hand crack directly off the ledge (crux) to a left facing corner. Then at the base of a large gully move left into an offwidth.
3	3Sphinx, 19	19	0m	1.02
P1 19 Trad Initial slab pitches follow a series of short right facing corners to a ledge. Devious moves left then right to gain a stunning right facing corner halfway up the face. 40m of jamming.
4	4Homegrown, 21	21	0m	1.02
P1 21 Trad Starts 30m left of the JC crack on the left side of a rib. The route tends right over some easy ledges before moving left onto the grey slab. Continue up, passing the roof above. This climb has a reputation for being both hard and committing with minimal protection. Yet is one of the more classic lines in the region.
5	5JC Crack, 15	15	0m	2.01
P1 15 Trad The prominent crack-line near the right side of the face: damp at times.
	JC Crack, IV,WI4	IV,WI4	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Water Ice WI4 Climb four pleasant pitches up the initial corner. Pitches five and six follow a crack line through the top wall and are airy but not severe. Climbed mainly on rock protection.
	Bowen Lockwood, 15	15	0m	0
P1 15 Trad An unlikely line that breaks left from the J-C Crack up overlaps.
	East Ridge Buttress		0m	0
P1 Trad 5 Pitches: The route lies immediately right of the gully on the right-hand side of the Summit Pyramid. Quality rock with 6 aid moves.
	East Ridge Gully, IV,WI3	IV,WI3	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Water Ice WI3 Follows an obvious gully between thr Summit Pyramid and the East Ridge.
	Tears of Papatuanuku, IV,7	IV,7	0m	0
On buttress to right of East Ridge Gully. Up an overhanging chimney to a hanging ice dagger. Very steep and pumpy to pull onto ice, not climbed clean on FA. Nice ice gully above to gain E ridge. P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 7 Trad

Images

Comments

Attribution

Craig Jefferies

UUID

702a2442-bb9a-42ab-9e73-8ea18524360c