Taiaroa Pk | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

2154m

Part of

Taiaroa Pk is easily climbed. The real rewards for climbers lie on a complex assemblage of bullet-hard buttresses of orange rock that dominate the northern, western and southern aspects.

Lat/lon

-44.68019,168.062243, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

CB09 069 406

Accessed from

Te Puoho Glacier

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Places

Type	Name	Alert
Face	West Face
Mountain	Mighty Dur
Mountain	Petit Dur

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Original Route			0
From the col between the high and south peaks it's a short scramble, mostly on the east side of the ridge.
	North Buttress			0
Begin from the col between Taiaroa and the Mighty Dur. Two rope lengths at the base of the buttress then scrambling to the summit.
	North West Pillar, II,22	II,22	450m	2.01
The massive pillar on the north end of the west face: a series of towers. Awesome! At the base of the pillar is a large roof. The orange wall below this is split by a diagonal crack running R-L. Scramble/pitch to the grassy ledge below this. The first crux pitch could possibly be avoided by scooting up to the right of the overhang and chimney to the base of the next tower. Great looking walls on pitches 3, 5, and 6 (possibly grade 20/21?) could be climbed instead of the easier arête. P1 22 Alpine (Commitment) II 40m Trad Climb the diagonal over a wee roof to a step left to belay in or under alcove. P2 18 50m Trad Bust out right and steeply up to belay at blocks with rock drawbridge below the next tower. P3 18 360m Trad Pitches 3–9 continue up the pillar.

Comments

Attribution

Craig Jefferies

UUID

fa8982c4-5207-44e1-aae6-eda4a6d23b6c