2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Darrans
  5. Darran Mountains
  6. Mt Talbot
  2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Darrans
  5. Gertrude Valley
  6. Mt Talbot

Mt Talbot

(36 routes)

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2105m
New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-44.751113340000, 167.997516750000
NZMS260: 
D40 141 943
Topo50: 
CB09 040 325
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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Macpherson Cirque
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the waterfall wall on the left, traverse right and up a rock rib to the snowfields.
Ralph Miller, Lloyd Warburton, Dick Wood, 1957.
8 East Ridge 17 , 17 , 12 , 17 300m
3
 wire representing trad
Starting from the snowfield above Black Lake. The lower pitches involve sustained grade 17 climbing. The notch along the ridge may require a rappel. A 300m climb on good rock. Cross schrund to belay on the slab. Work your way up the slabs to belay on the ledge at the top of the right- facing corner.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
117300mYes
 

Starting from the snowfield above Black Lake. The lower pitches involve sustained grade 17 climbing. The notch along the ridge may require a rappel. A 300m climb on good rock.
Cross schrund to belay on the slab.
Work your way up the slabs to belay on the ledge at the top of the right- facing corner.

2170mYes
 

Avoid the vegetated right-facing corner by going left and over bulge. Climb run-out face to groove that cuts across the face.
3120mYes
 

Nice climbing in an easy groove to belay on a broad ledge.
4170mYes
 

Hand traverse across horizontal crack in wall above ledge, then up face to easier ground on ridge proper.
Some nice easy pitches lead to an 8m notch ( mostly rapped), move left around onto RH side of summit pyramid to where the East Ridge joins the the Couloir Route, which can be easily down climbed on slabs and the snow, or continue up edge of summit pyramid and over to the summit of Talbot.

There is a RH variant at the start that takes the RH facing corner crack just down from the snow arete.
Bill Blee, Ralph Miller, Mar 1957.
Couloir Route
0
 wire representing trad
The gully on the north side of the East Ridge offers an easy ascent and descent early in the summer, but the snow slope soon breaks up to expose steep slabby rock above the schrund. The rock on the East Ridge offers an alternative if the snow is broken. The original party descended the Traverse Pass route.
George Moir, Ken Roberts, Harry Slater, Bob Sinclair, 1924
16 Traverse Pass
0
From Gertrude Saddle follow slabs and snowfields to the pass. An easy route to the summits of Talbot and Macpherson. Gully left of Traverse Pass This is a loose rock couloir to the ridge beyond the steps above Traverse Pass.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies

Places

Type Title Link to edit content
Face (Alpine) East Face (Summit Pyramid) (10 routes)
Face (Alpine) North Face (5 routes)
Face (Alpine) South Face (8 routes)
Face (Alpine) Psychopath Wall (4 routes)
Crag Crag of Misfit Mascots (5 routes)

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UUID: 
4c744a3a-af0b-4ba9-8912-352bbd455824