Skip to main content

Mt Talbot

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2105m
Part of
Darran Mountains
Lat/lon
-44.75111334,167.99751675, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
CB09 040 325
Accessed from
Gertrude Valley
Hollyford River Whakatipu Ka Tuka
Add Place Add Route

Places

Type Name Alert
Face Summit Pyramid
Face North Face
Face South Face
Face Psychopath Wall

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Macpherson Cirque 0m
0
  • P1
  • Trad

Climb the waterfall wall on the left, traverse right and up a rock rib to the snowfields.
8 8East Ridge, 17 17 300m
3
  • P1
  • 17
  • 300m
  • Trad

Starting from the snowfield above Black Lake. The lower pitches involve sustained grade 17 climbing. The notch along the ridge may require a rappel. A 300m climb on good rock.
Cross schrund to belay on the slab.
Work your way up the slabs to belay on the ledge at the top of the right- facing corner.

  • P2
  • 17
  • Trad

Avoid the vegetated right-facing corner by going left and over bulge. Climb run-out face to groove that cuts across the face.

  • P3
  • 12
  • Trad

Nice climbing in an easy groove to belay on a broad ledge.

  • P4
  • 17
  • Trad

Hand traverse across horizontal crack in wall above ledge, then up face to easier ground on ridge proper.
Some nice easy pitches lead to an 8m notch ( mostly rapped), move left around onto RH side of summit pyramid to where the East Ridge joins the the Couloir Route, which can be easily down climbed on slabs and the snow, or continue up edge of summit pyramid and over to the summit of Talbot.

There is a RH variant at the start that takes the RH facing corner crack just down from the snow arete.
 Couloir Route 0m
0
  • P1
  • Trad

The gully on the north side of the East Ridge offers an easy ascent and descent early in the summer, but the snow slope soon breaks up to expose steep slabby rock above the schrund. The rock on the East Ridge offers an alternative if the snow is broken.
The original party descended the Traverse Pass route.
16 16Traverse Pass 0m
0
  • P1

From Gertrude Saddle follow slabs and snowfields to the pass. An easy route to the summits of Talbot and Macpherson.
Gully left of Traverse Pass
This is a loose rock couloir to the ridge beyond the steps above Traverse Pass.
Comments
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
4c744a3a-af0b-4ba9-8912-352bbd455824