Hourglass & Centre Walls

(15 routes)

The big wall, on the lower west side of Cloudy Pk.

Altitude: 
1500m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Dm Demondim 24 150m
0
wire representing trad
Centre Wall
Martyn Clark, Bill McLeod, 1992
Ub Unbeliever 22 180m
1.02
wire representing trad
Good wall climbing to reach grooves and then overhangs. Five pitches, some bolts, bolt belays.
Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, 1992
Mission to Mercury 12,18,18,21,16,18,22,18 352m
0
57bolts wire representing trad 2
A mixed bolted and trad climb that runs up the left side of the Hourglass Wall. Descent, 1 walk off, the ledge rightward to the scree around the base of the Hourglass wall. Or 2 Abseil the pitch 7 & 8; then pick up the pitch 5/ 6 change of The Whole 9 Yards, and straight down to the base of the Hourglass Wall.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11235m1Yes
 

Start at 9Y carved in rock, go towards V to the Whole 9 Yards rap station and go left 10m to next belay/rap station.

21840m16Yes
 

Climb chimney to upper ledge

31836m7Yes
 

Continue up chimney, and move left onto wall after overlap. At ledge go left to next belay/rap station

42140m7Yes
 

Go up leftwards, then up left facing corner onto the wall, zag back rightwards, to right facing corner, zag left over feature to belay/rap station on the ledge

51640m4Yes
 

Climb ramp/ corner system to 4th bolt then go right at ledge to belay/rap station

61848m1Yes
 

Climb through overlap then up face, then onto scramble up corner/ ramp to belay/rap station on the left of corner

72258m10Yes
 

Up the wall above the rap station up steep, crispy wall, then through a series of walls and small ledges.

81855m11Yes
 

Up the right corner system to big ledge, options (A) go left around the overhang past 3 bolts, (B) go right at the big ledge, to easier ground, then back left to the top belay/rap station.

Anna Brooke, Grant Piper, Ed Machado, Jonathan Tye, ?/2022
MI Mission Impossible 17 325m
0
wire representing trad
Hourglass Wall
Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1981
MA Mission Accomplished 19 300m
1.02
wire representing trad
This direct finish to the previous route makes a more sustained climb. Move left onto the face and up for four pitches, once the diagonal is reached.
Steve Elder, Bill McLeod, 1990
BD Big Dipper 25 300m
0
7bolts wire representing trad
Tackles the most impressive features on the wall : climb over three sets of overhangs to reach the big arch. Through this and across the big roof (crux, bolts) and straight up the wall above.
Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, 1991
FR Fiddler on the Roof 20 280m
2.01
wire representing trad 1
The first route through the spectacular overhangs on the left side of the wall. Nine pitches – the roof pitch and the wall above are very good. Finish up the Mission Impossible diagonal.
James Jenkins, Lindsay Main, 1980
FL When the Frog Lifts 17 80m
1.02
wire representing trad 2
Yup, frog. Two good pitches on the compact orange rock of the upper wall. Accessed by abseil.
Fiona Bowie, Richard Thomson, 1987
SM When the Snow Melts 21 300m
0
wire representing trad
‘The line of greatest resistance.’ Sustained climbing up to and through the main overhang via corner systems at its right-hand end.
Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod, 1991
HL Hourglass Left 19 300m
0
wire representing trad
The big natural line in the centre of the wall. Three good pitches (crux on first pitch) are followed by uninteresting climbing in loose, vegetated gullies and chimneys.
Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1980
HR Hourglass Right 16 300m
0
wire representing trad
The bottom right line of the ‘hourglass’ is sometimes loose and sometimes barely protectable.
Brent Davis, Brian Fish, 1981
The Hourglass has Turned 19 300m
1.02
wire representing trad
Sustained climbing, spaced protection, immaculate rock. P1 - 50m (19) Start on right hand edge of overhangs. Up vegetated terrain to rib and onto face above. Traverse left to belay in second groove. Excavation of protection was required on this pitch. P2 - 45m (16) up groove to shallow right corner. Belayed below roof. P3 - 10m (10) Traversed left, belayed in the 'Hourglass Right' groove. P4 - 50m (19) Traverse right then straight up through roof. Heading right up shallow cracks which are fused and rounded higher up. P5 - 20m (19) Right hand side of shallow recessed corner P6 - 25m (17) Bridging up twin cracks then step right to corner and up to large ledge. P7 - 30m (18) The sneaky groove through the roof. Traverse left along ledge to an awkward belay on wall above. P8 - 50m (17) Traversing right following cracks, through a small corner chimney then up onto large ledge. Belay in top left corner P9 - 30m (15) Traverse right then up right leaning crack to scree slope. Walked off by traversing right.
Michael Eatson, Tawny Wagstaff. March 2016.
US The United States in Mind 18 300m
0
wire representing trad
Some delightful climbing on a direct line, following the enigmatic left-facing feature.
Steve Elder, Bill McLeod, 1990
Yg Ytivarg 17 250m
2.01
wire representing trad
Five good pitches on sound rock, sometimes committing and exposed.
Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1981
SA Slip-sliding Away 15 200m
0
wire representing trad
Sustained and enjoyable, meandering but logical. Climb the right-hand side of the wall.
James Jenkins, Lindsay Main, 1980
Attribution: 
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club
UUID: 
cf092387-e264-4ffe-b4f6-20dd3cae57fe