Natural pro requiredA straight up route on the left side of the Hourglass Wall.
Start 70m left of The Whole Nine Yards. 9Y. This involves a quick scramble to get to the start.
You will notice the bolts for the first pitch and the left facing corner that makes the 2nd pitch.
The whole route can be descended using a single 60m rope (raps are 30m or less apart even if pitch is 45m long)
There is a small amount of trad gear required, BD cams from #0.3 - #1.0.
Extendable quick draws are also very useful.
There is enough bolts in places to aid through cruxes above grade 20.
- P1
- 17
- 15m
- 3
Traverse right and scramble up to belay.
- P2
- 21
- 30m
- 5
- Trad
(18 M1), 5 bolts + trad, out right into imposing corner system close to arete.
- P3
- 20
- 45m
- 9
- Trad
Head right from belay then traverse (10 m ?) left and up headwall. Once off the steep wall, carry on 10m upwards to back of ledge and belay station.
- P4
- 19
- 40m
- 9
Head leftwards 10m from belay then following diagonal system on sloppy ledge. At ledge height, move left and use Lh belay station. If you shooting for the stars, do pitch 4 of Mission to Mercury.
- P5
- 19
- 40m
- 9
- Trad
Head right up over belay and over diagonal breaks, at 6th bolt head left to belay, use 1st 2 bolts on Lhs. ( Ignore 1st 2 bolts on Rhs which are in the wrong place).
- P6
- 22
- 25m
- 6
- Trad
Go right off the ledge and across to a groove then onto headwall, using thin foot holds, horizontal and vertical rails.
- P7
- 20
- 25m
- 6
- Trad
Follow the bolts, though balance moves to a small ledge.
- P8
- 21
- 30m
- 9
- Trad
Climb steep slab on small holds to overlap at top. Go left below 3rd bolt finger crack for gear if needed.
- P9
- 19
- 25m
- 3
- Trad
Start on stretchy moves. Pass 2 bolts, then go up to the base of the gully. Belay is on the left below gully.
- P10
- 18
- 35m
- 4
- Trad
Across gully and back left onto jugular wall. Or there’s an easier option; go up the right side of the gully and onto ledge, and carry on to top following a few bolts for navigation beacons.
- P11
- 19
- 20m
- 4
- Trad
Up overlap to ledge. The best place to finish the climb. Abseil down the route from here.
- P12
- 10
- 20m
- Trad
Follow left up rising ledge to another rap station. (Optional but needed if you want to top out at the top of the wall).
So you used an ice tool on P2 to get the M1 grade?
If you're climbing a route 70m left of your 9 Yards route have you considered that you may have copied the Bowie Thompson route on the left wall?
There are a number of improvements to be carried out at a later date, but generally okay to climb at this stage.
The bottom pitches are good!