Hourglass & Centre Walls

(18 M1), 5 bolts + trad, out right into imposing corner system close to arete.

Head right from belay then traverse (10 m ?) left and up headwall. Once off the steep wall, carry on 10m upwards to back of ledge and belay station.

Head leftwards 10m from belay then following diagonal system on sloppy ledge. At ledge height, move left and use Lh belay station. If you shooting for the stars, do pitch 4 of Mission to Mercury.

Head right up over belay and over diagonal breaks, at 6th bolt head left to belay, use 1st 2 bolts on Lhs. ( Ignore 1st 2 bolts on Rhs which are in the wrong place).

Go right off the ledge and across to a groove then onto headwall, using thin foot holds, horizontal and vertical rails.

Follow the bolts, though balance moves to a small ledge.

Climb steep slab on small holds to overlap at top. Go left below 3rd bolt finger crack for gear if needed.

Start on stretchy moves. Pass 2 bolts, then go up to the base of the gully. Belay is on the left below gully.

Across gully and back left onto jugular wall. Or there’s an easier option; go up the right side of the gully and onto ledge, and carry on to top following a few bolts for navigation beacons.

Up overlap to ledge. The best place to finish the climb. Abseil down the route from here.

Climb the wall directly above belay then move left into grove, Climb groove through a series (3) of overhangs . DB belay past 3rd overhang.

Continue up grove and face then trough small over hang past 3 more bolts to Belay

A 20m traverse left. Climb easy corner to left. Continue traversing left past an abseil station station (Sharpshooter), clip this then climb easier ground to belay station below left facing corner system.

Climb left facing corner on trad, then clip bolt on lip off small overhang. Clip this and pill onto the face. Follow line of bolts traversing well right then up ledge system, traversing back left to the belay ledge. Your second will thank you if you put in a direction cam before the traverse left to the belay.

Climb up easy ground above to large right leaning ramp. Climb this past 4 bolts till you get to a large ledge system. Traverse right and down this ledge, arranging cams and threads, for another 20m to DB belay of W9Y, complete with drill bit stuck in rock

From this belay the W9Y takes the right line of bolt. Mission to Mercury climbs the roof directly above the belay then follows the right leaning crack system. From belay climb through roof past 2 bolt to the crack. Follow crack up for 15m then move back left to large ledge system, Move left back to large right tending ramp, Easy climbing up ramp, protection is sparce but can be found. After 30m move left onto hanging ledge and 2 bolt belay.

Move left from belay onto exposed head wall, climb this through small roof and up head wall, crux, till you reach lower angle wall and a series of ledges . Move left along ledge then back right to bolt then climb head wall above to large belay ledge 60m below the top of the hourglass wall

Follow the line of bolts tending right up wall to a large ledge system , from here put on direction runner for second and move 20m left to DB belay

Climb straight up v grove, skirt left around overlap and up past eight bolts. Under the next overlap, move right to an anchor.

From corner on right of overlap, step up and climb right facing corner (trad.) to roof. Step left onto face and move up past well-spaced bolts on easier ground to the big ledge. The anchor is on your left.

Start at left corner of big ledge, Climb past three bolts onto the face left of the corner (crux). Climb up the face past two bolts, angling right to a splitter crack. Climb the 10m splitter crack (BD 2 and 3) to overlap. Step up onto the face and continue climbing to DBBS.

Climb through the overlap to the right of the anchor. Make a delicate move to the left and continue up the black face until capped by another overlap. Skirt right of the overlap into a vague crack. Climb up to a third overlap and move right onto easier climbing. The pitch finishes on a small ledge under the next overhang.

Climb through the overhang (crux) and continue up the face above. After the second bolt move left across the face to gain an off-width feature with good right-leaning, left-facing edges. Continue up the edges to a horizontal ledge. Traverse right to an orange left-facing corner and trad. gear. Move up the corner onto the brown face and past a single bolt. Finish on a big ledge with a rap station.

Follow the line of bolts starting at the right of the ledge, traverse right onto the red rock face, and then veering left until you reach the rap anchor at the top of the Hour Glass Wall (can be split in two pitches).