When the Snow Melts

Grade

Length

105m

Natural pro required

Quality

First ascent

Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod, 1991

Located on

Hourglass & Centre Walls

Topo ref

‘The line of greatest resistance’. Sustained climbing up to and through the main overhang via corner systems at its right-hand end. Starts 50 metres left of rock outcrop which is under the Hourglass routes and eight metres right of a steep ramp of Fiddler on the Roof. The route takes the line of greatest resistance and best rock.

Rappel off or scramble 10 metres up to descent ledges at top of Hourglass wall.

P1
15
Trad

Climb more or less straight up well featured rock to bolt belay on ledge

P2
21
Trad

Up overhang, moving right slightly, then back left to undercling a flake. Carry on up to another overhang pulling through on the right. Bolt belay on ledge.

P3
17
Trad

Up best part of face, avoiding a corner on the left (also avoid a massive flake with a rappel sling further out on the left). Bolt belay at ledge on right.

P4
20
Trad

Move left about 5 metres then climb up bulge and up into a steep corner with a layback crack through the big roof. Move left near the top of corner and carry on up above roof to bolt belay.

Move left on ledge then climb up to a bolt runner. Angle right up a seam to the top (very runout). Bolt belay.

Move left along a ledge and up a wall to undercling an overhang. Undercling and move left along overhang to reach the big ledge. Bolt and bollard belay.

Climb directly up through two big bulges to bolt belay.

Climb up seam and continue straight up until near the top. Move diagonally right to smooth sloping ledge and bolt belay.

Comments

Attribution

The Canterbury Mountaineer

UUID

813496a5-23ce-414b-887a-61702042c391