Mt D’Archiac

Essentially a variation on the East Ridge, suitable in winter/spring. Climb a broad gully of snow well left of the ridge, above the South Forbes Glacier, which bypasses the lower rock ridge. Continue to the summit as per the east ridge.

From Revelation Col, climb the rock ridge to a sharply defined snow-crest which abuts onto the final rise to the summit ridge. Pick a line onto the final ridge (first ascentionists went right, over good rock), then travel along a final snow and rock ridge to the summit.

From Revelation Col, ascend on a rising traverse across the face to gain the top of the north ridge, which is followed to the summit.
The face was skiied by Mark Sedon and Kane Henderson in 1999.

An interesting rock climb. This is the ridge that gives D’Archiac its distinctive profile. The traditional start was from the junction of the Godley and Dennistoun Glaciers, but glacier recession has made this quite difficult. It may be better to join the route described from higher on the Dennistoun Glacier (route 8I).
Ascend the broad lower ridge to gain a snowslope west of Pt 2439m. These days, it wouldn’t be surprising if the snowslope disappears by late summer. The upper part of the snowslope is bound by two rock spurs; climb to the junction of spurs using either a rocky couloir or a spur to the east. Then traverse along good rock on the narrow north ridge. A large tower higher up can be turned on the east. The easiest descent would be either the North East Face or the East Ridge.

From the Godley Hut toilet, climb onto the ridge separating the Godley Lake from FitzGerald Stream (Godley Ridge) and follow this to gain the Trident Glacier.
Most parties have climbed high on the Trident Glacier to gain the West Ridge near Pt 2572m, as there are reportedly some difficult steps low on the ridge. The ridge from Pt 2572m to the summit involves climbing described by some as ‘steep and interesting’ and by others as ‘rotten and friable.’ Like most rock ridges in the park, it’s more pleasant when there is snow or ice to hold things together.

From either the FitzGerald Glacier or Separation Glacier, gain the 2400m col on the ridge, then climb steep snow (absent during most recent summers) and the occasional section of poor rock punctuated with gendarmes, to join the West Ridge.

A direct line up the centre of the south face. Four 60m pitches of steep climbing on a narrow ice flow connect the base of the south face to the upper snowfields. The snowfields are linked by a series of ice steps to top out on the summit (4-6 pitches or simul climbing).

The Bandaid Route climbs the central buttress on the south face. Start by following the left edge of the prominent snow gully to the right of the buttress to an obvious block. From here move up a left-trending corner groove for a pitch of very sustained rock climbing (crux). Continue up and left to gain the crest of a central rib and follow this to the summit. On the first ascent, McLeod’s crampon was held together by elastoplast tape.
Descend the south west ridge or east ridge.

The 'more desirable' of the two south face ice lines; a problematic close relation to ‘Desire’. Forms when ice links up on the right of the ‘Band-Aid-Buttress’, creating an hourglass figure – the pillar in the middle can be detached and thin (as for the FA). Route meets SE ridge approximately 50m from the summit. Descent was via a large couloir to the Dennistoun. Generally WI2/3 climbing (in condition), with a sustained, 60m, WI4 crux pitch - containing a 10m WI5 pillar (possibly easier in good condition). FA gear: Nuts (5 total – var sizes), Screws (x12). FA involved 5 pitches with additional sections of simul-climbing on connecting snow. 18-20 hours on FA from camp below Separation Glacier (In variable wx).

A classic route. From Separation Col, the ridge rises in three rock steps, the first of which can be turned on the Forbes side. The upper two buttresses present more difficult climbing. Above the buttresses, the climbing on the ridge becomes more straightforward up to the junction with the east ridge, where snow and rock leads to the summit. The easiest descent is the east ridge, followed by a steep traverse across the upper South Forbes Glacier to Separation Col.