An interesting rock climb. This is the ridge that gives D’Archiac its distinctive profile. The traditional start was from the junction of the Godley and Dennistoun Glaciers, but glacier recession has made this quite difficult. It may be better to join the route described from higher on the Dennistoun Glacier (route 8I).
Ascend the broad lower ridge to gain a snowslope west of Pt 2439m. These days, it wouldn’t be surprising if the snowslope disappears by late summer. The upper part of the snowslope is bound by two rock spurs; climb to the junction of spurs using either a rocky couloir or a spur to the east. Then traverse along good rock on the narrow north ridge. A large tower higher up can be turned on the east. The easiest descent would be either the North East Face or the East Ridge.
- P1
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 3+
