From Eade Memorial Hut
Route 8D on topo, grade II, 2
From Eade Memorial Hut, if the Classen Lake outlet can be crossed, access to the lower Grey Glacier is reportedly feasible around the western side of Grey-Maud Lake. The difficulty of this route is unknown.
From Godley Hut
Route 8E on topo, grade II, 1+
From Godley Hut, if the Godley Lake outlet can be crossed, the lower Maud Glacier can be reached by travelling along the Godley Lake shoreline to a bay that leads to the Maud Glacier. Travel between the lower Maud and lower Grey Glaciers is feasible by crossing the toe of Gordon Peak’s south-east ridge.
Access to upper Grey Glacier
The Grey Glacier icefall is often negotiable during winter and spring, but is usually impassable during summer and autumn. In the latter case there are two options to access the upper Grey Glacier. Neither is an easy packing route:
- Climb the moraine wall from the lower Grey to reach the South East Ridge of Gordon Peak. The best place to do this is unknown. The ridge is a moderately steep scramble on loose rock (II, 2+).
- From the head of the Maud Glacier on the true right, ascend the prominent couloir rising towards Mt Frances. Begin in the centre then climb towards the mixed snow and rock arête on the right. Follow the upper part of the arête to the summit. Originally climbed as 14 pitches (Going Grey, II, 3+).
