OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
This is a significant and complex crag. The main Devils Gap walls are predominantly trad routes, as well as few high-quality sport routes. Below, to the east, Dragon Crags and the Dragons Lair offer mostly bolted climbing.
Generally there are bolt anchors at the top of most climbs. It suits a fairly calm day and can be very pleasant in winter.
Head to Little River, and climb Kinloch Road to gain Bossu Road. Turn left at the junction of Kinloch and Bossu then take a right turn onto Gap Road. Without blocking the track park near the gated track with the NZAC sign. An easy 5-10 minute walk past the gate and later through some denser vegetation will place you at the base of the main cliffline on the left side.
The crag is only open at weekends and on public holidays.
SPECIAL CONDITIONS APPLY TO ACCESS AT THIS CRAG
There is a booking system which requires climbers to sign in with their names and vehicle registration for each day of climbing. This is monitored by a group of "gatekeepers". who will interact with the farmer. There will be a cut-off each weekend for the coming weekend on Friday evening at 7 pm. Any registrations after that time will not be notified to the farmer, and therefore do not have permission.
Do Not Park In Front Of The Gate!
No naked flames of any kind. No cookers, No Smoking
Sign in by going to the Google form at: https://forms.gle/oqQK7hfLoD1LZgHS9
AFTER A LENGTHY CLOSURE DUE TO THE THOUGHTLESSNESS AND STUPIDITY OF A NUMBER OF CLIMBERS WHO HAVE REPEATEDLY LEFT GATES OPEN, AND/OR BEEN FOUND ON THE LAND WITHOUT PERMISSION, THESE MEASURES HAVE BEEN TAKEN TO ENSURE THAT CLIMBERS COMPLY WITH THE FARMER'S REQUIREMENTS.
DO NOT CONTACT THE FARM MANAGER
It is not uncommon for farming activities to require the farm to be closed to the public. This may occur because of lambing, stock movements, helicopter spraying, or other reasons. Any closures will be notified here.