East Wall

(8 routes)

This is a large and rather broken east-facing cliff extending from near the Devil's Gap (the saddle which the track crosses) on the left to a descent gully on the right, where the cliff-line swings west to become the Main Cliff. The routes are 40 metres long. There are adequate natural anchors. Descend by the main gully to the north, or take the easy walk southward and back around to the base of the crag.

Altitude: 
680m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
10 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Bookends 19 40m
0
wire representing trad
The long arête on the very left of the crag. Steep climbing up cracks just right of the arête (crux); then easily to a bulge, which has great holds around to the left. At the next bulge move right to the crack and continue up easier ground to a great anchor boulder at the top.
Lindsay Main, 2012
Tutu Tour 19 40m
0
wire representing trad
Start up the obvious overhanging mossy crack and bridge up past a dead korokia bush to the easier angled V-chimney. Gain the vegetated ledge and work out a plan for the headwall, starting left of the tutu and gradually moving right to the rightmost crack. After the start protection is good. Gain the corner above the headwall and then scramble to the top. Use slings and/or cams to anchor.
Lindsay Main, 2014
Pilgrimage 15 40m
0
wire representing trad
The left crack in a recessed area in the middle of the crag, with a large vegetated ledge at mid-height. Then up a smooth V-groove to a steepening open chimney and a steep hand crack above to exit. Still a little loose.
Lindsay Main, 1973
Crusade 15 40m
0
wire representing trad
The adjacent route on the right side, sometimes merging into Pilgrimage for a short section about ten metres up. Above the grassy ledge a nice chimney goes through to a low-angled crack to the top, angling left of the large protruding block.
Andrew Smith, 1973
Shelter From The Storm 18 40m
0
wire representing trad
Follows the central rib of the crag. Start up an undercut crack to a ledge, and climb the weakness on the left to step around on to a small exposed platform on the rib. Balance up over the bulge to a ramp on the left; then cruise up easy ground to the steepening wall above (crux), which is best climbed on the left. Then over a block, past a korokia, and finish up the chimney against the big block. Well-protected, especially at the hard bits.
Lindsay Main, 2013
Joe's route 18 40m
0
wire representing trad
Starts up an attractive easy left-facing corner with a featured wall to climb on, leading to lower-angled ledgy terrain. Above is a double corner. The route goes up the left corner (crux), though it’s much easier to climb the right a bit and step across. Easy crack climbing; then step right to avoid the stacked blocks on the left.
Joe Arts, 2008
Why Bother? 16 35m
0
wire representing trad
A contrived route on the left of the wall. Bush bash through thick scrub to reach the base of the climb. Follow the line of weakness on the right of the small gully at the base and climb through a series of grassy ledges. Poor quality rock and loose at the top. Average gear. Anchor using slings and small cams.
Ben Gibbins 2012
Malicious Rumour 17 30m
0
wire representing trad
On the rib left of the descent gully. Interesting and varied climbing. Start at the toe of the rib on the right and pass the bulge above on the left. From the pillar step right on to the face and continue up cracks to the top.
Bruce Readman, 1976

Comments

Removed topo as it is too confusing. I will replace it with a more accurate one when I can.