2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Canterbury
  5. Banks Peninsula
  6. Devil's Gap
  7. Left Cliff

Left Cliff

(14 routes)

This is left section of the obvious cliff-line above the road, extending from the vegetated descent gully on the left to the recessed area known as The Embayment.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
680m
Aspect: 
North West
Access: 

The best parking area is at the first gate. Walk 50 metres along the road to the second gate (with the NZAC sign), and follow the track towards the crag. At some point cut up the spur to the left end of the cliff. The usual base is just below Divine Retribution.

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-43.825000000000, 172.824010000000
NZMS260: 
N37 959 091
Topo50: 
BY24 858 475
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
VOG Visions of God 16
0
 wire representing trad
Cracks up the arête at the turn of the crag. Good steep bridging, followed by a nice slab finish. Anchor to a boulder.
John Madgewick, 1991.
Thomas the Tank Engine 17
0
 wire representing trad
Three metres right is a right-leaning groove. Up to join the corner then step left onto the wall and strike off up the improbable face above. Adequate protection, two ropes recommended.
Calum Hudson, 1993.
Divine Retribution 13 16m
0
 wire representing trad
The corner to the right, exiting over the bush at the top of the crack.
Murray Cullen, 1972.
WBS White Boys On Steroids 23
1.02
 4bolts wire representing trad 1
Imposing line a few metres right up the smooth face and through the roof. Four bolts and wires.
Simon Middlemass 1991.
SS Satan's Slit 19 18m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Excellent crack climbing in a steep thin crack at the right edge of the face.
Lindsay Main 1979
Kungfu Pig 17 20m
0
 wire representing trad
Up the broad arête with limited protection.
Calum Hudson, 1990.
TE Throwaway epic 17 27m
0
 wire representing trad
Just around the arête to the right of Satans Slip, a vegetated right facing corner. 2x ring anchor.
Gary Kearns, 2007.
LJ Repulsive Monkey 19 20m
0
 wire representing trad
About ten metres right, obvious crack and corner trending right, with a bush. Good jamming.
Calum Hudson, 1990.
SA Suspended Animation 23
1.02
 7bolts
Deceptively steep line with 7 bolts. This is what sport climbing is all about. Double ring anchors.
Andrew Buist, 2001
Johns’ Route 22
0
 wire representing trad
Start as for the previous route. Follow a crack line that heads up and right, and then head straight up to the Suspended Animation anchors. Good protection from wires and CDs.
John Iseli, 2002.
JR Decade 16 15m
0
 wire representing trad
A prominent vegetated corner just before the major embayment in the cliff line.
Lindsay Main, 1988
Alien Encounter 18 15m
0
 wire representing trad
A direct line following steep thin cracks. Start at a small right-facing corner with some marginal wires and move up to cracks and cam placements. Up over big jugs to the ledge and thin crack. Bridge to the right past the nose/bulge and pull up into the vegetated corner. There is a single anchor a few metres down, and you can redirect off a tree.
Lindsay Main, 2013
Lost For Words 19
0
 wire representing trad
On the left hand side of the bay is an overhanging narrow rib with thin cracks. Technical moves up the rib, then step left into the gully to gain the ledge as for the previous routes. Short but good fun. Good cam anchors.
Lindsay Main, 1997.
Short And Sweet 19 12m
0
 wire representing trad
The next climb is on the left side of the upper wall, taking in the obvious central corner and the crack to its left.
Lindsay Main, 2014