Left Cliff | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

680m

Part of

This is left section of the obvious cliff-line above the road, extending from the vegetated descent gully on the left to the recessed area known as The Embayment.

Aspect

North West

Lat/lon

POINT (172.82401 -43.825)

Topo50

BY24 858 475

Approach

The best parking area is at the first gate. Walk 50 metres along the road to the second gate (with the NZAC sign), and follow the track towards the crag. At some point cut up the spur to the left end of the cliff. The usual base is just below Divine Retribution.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
VOG	VOGVisions of God, 16	16			0
P1 16 Trad Cracks up the arête at the turn of the crag. Good steep bridging, followed by a nice slab finish. Anchor to a boulder.
	Devil Worshipper, 17	17	20m	2	0
P1 17 20m 2 Trad Start up the small corner to gain the ledge, crank up the face past 2 bolts, then leftwards around the arete to finish up the Visions of God slabs to the rap station.
	Thomas the Tank Engine, 17	17			0
P1 17 Trad Three metres right is a right-leaning groove. Up to join the corner then step left onto the wall and strike off up the improbable face above. Adequate protection, two ropes recommended.
	Divine Retribution, 13	13	16m		0
The corner to the right, exiting over the bush at the top of the crack. P1 13 16m Trad
WBS	WBSWhite Boys On Steroids, 23	23		4	1.02
P1 23 4 Trad Imposing line a few metres right up the smooth face and through the roof. Four bolts and wires.
SS	SSSatan's Slit, 19	19	18m		1.02
Excellent crack climbing in a steep thin crack at the right edge of the face. P1 19 18m Trad
	Kungfu Pig, 17	17	20m		0
P1 17 20m Trad Up the broad arête with limited protection.
	Inertia, 20	20	20m	4	0
P1 20 20m 4 Trad Follow the right side pillar past 3 bolts into the small right facing corner. At the top of the flake, go up the face, past the bolt to the corner and rap station above White Boys on Steriods.
TE	TEThrowaway epic, 17	17	27m		0
P1 17 27m Trad Just around the arête to the right of Satans Slip, a vegetated right facing corner. 2x ring anchor.
LJ	LJRepulsive Monkey, 19	19	20m		0
P1 19 20m Trad About ten metres right, obvious crack and corner trending right, with a bush. Good jamming.
SA	SASuspended Animation, 23	23		7	1.02
P1 23 7 Deceptively steep line with 7 bolts. This is what sport climbing is all about. Double ring anchors.
	Johns’ Route, 22	22			0
P1 22 Trad Start as for the previous route. Follow a crack line that heads up and right, and then head straight up to the Suspended Animation anchors. Good protection from wires and CDs.
JR	JRDecade, 16	16	15m		0
P1 16 15m Trad A prominent vegetated corner just before the major embayment in the cliff line.
	Alien Encounter, 18	18	15m		0
P1 18 15m Trad A direct line following steep thin cracks. Start at a small right-facing corner with some marginal wires and move up to cracks and cam placements. Up over big jugs to the ledge and thin crack. Bridge to the right past the nose/bulge and pull up into the vegetated corner. There is a single anchor a few metres down, and you can redirect off a tree.
	Lost For Words, 19	19			0
P1 19 Trad On the left hand side of the bay is an overhanging narrow rib with thin cracks. Technical moves up the rib, then step left into the gully to gain the ledge as for the previous routes. Short but good fun. Good cam anchors.
	Short And Sweet, 19	19	12m		0
The next climb is on the left side of the upper wall, taking in the obvious central corner and the crack to its left. P1 19 12m Trad The first part of the name is true. Start in the corner and move left to place gear in the overhanging crack; then back to the right and bridge up the corner. Swing into the crack, avoiding a pile of loose blocks, and stand up to finish over an easy bulge.

Comments

UUID

ab6593a2-011f-443e-ba37-e653be663286