Right Cliff

(21 routes)

This is the steep high wall right of The Embayment, sometimes divided into three distinct areas: Possum Wall, Waterfall Wall, and Ice Buttress. Beyond Ice Buttress there is an extensive area of unclimbed rock. The routes are listed left to right.

Altitude: 
700m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North West
NZMS260: 
956093
Walk time: 
10 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
A Stab In The Dark 18 28m
2.01
wire representing trad 1
The next five routes are on the prominent buttress known as Possum Wall, with a broadleaf tree at the base. This route is an obvious corner/crack. Climb easily up the start past a bush and into the corner, then bridge past the roof (crux) to a ledge, and on up the corner. Finish up the groove (wires) past a shrub to ring anchors (shared with the next route). A great trad route with perfect gear.
Nigel Perry, 1990
SiD Here Comes Mrs. Hairy Legs 20 28m
2.01
10bolts 1
About 2m right of the previous route, clamber up the boulder left of the broadleaf tree and skirt the small bush to clip the first bolt. Head gradually right to the fifth bolt (with a slight sidestep at the white rock), then move left on to the prow to gain a ledge below a surprisingly tricky V-corner. 10 bolts & ring anchors.
Andrew Buist, 2002
14R The Wandering Taoist 17 29m
1.02
wire representing trad 1
Starts on the right side of the broadleaf tree. Over a the block and vegetated ledge, and then follow a line of grooves and cracks all the way to finish in the notch at the top. Good natural protection(v.small wires up to #3 Camalot), plus anchor rings.
Calum Hudson, 1997
The Bad Bohemian 16 28m
0
wire representing trad 1
Good natural protection. Scramble over blocks and bushes right of the broadleaf and gain the steep left-facing corner. Up this and across a slab to a prominent corner. Finish up a crack. There are anchor rings about two metres left.
Calum Hudson, 1997
Greco Roman Wrestling 17 28m
0
wire representing trad
Start as for The Bad Bohemian, move right after a few moves and continue up slabs on the crest (spaced pro) as far right as possible to a sharp arête (gear at start) to a faint ledge, then climb steep cracks as for the Bad Bohemian finish (crux). Belay from chockstones on left. Abseil rings are another 3m left.
Kieran Parsons 2012
In Sympathy 16 30m
0
wire representing trad
Beyond a scrubby area is a high section of cliff known as Waterfall Wall, strarting with four obvious dihedrals. This one starts up a wide crack and follows a series of corners and cracks over ledges to a steeper crux with care required over the protection. Trend right to anchors (shared with the next three routes) right at the top.
Lindsay Main, 2007
Devil's Dihedral 19 30m
0
wire representing trad
Up a short corner and scramble to a bushy ledge. Climb the steep white corner(crux) with numerous micro wires (poor placements), to easier ground. Move left to join the finish of In Sympathy.
Lindsay Main, 2007
The Darkness and the Light 19 30m
1.02
4bolts wire representing trad 1
From the same ledge takes steep corners and overhangs. Swing around past the prominent nose with the first bolt to gain the corner, with bridging and good gear to the headwall. Four bolts, ring anchors.
Gary Kearns, 2008
The Devil Made Me Do It 20 30m
0
wire representing trad
Start in an attractive easy corner with a nice crack and cruise up to the ledge. Then climb the left-leaning shallow groove (crux), using protection in the crack on the right wall to gain the crack at the top of the groove. Pull up and then move carefully left across the slab. Exposed moves above the gear with good holds will gain a vague crack to finish.
Lindsay Main, 2007
NBD The Dance Of The Demented Flounder 17 28m
0
4bolts wire representing trad
Attribution of the first ascent has not been confirmed at this stage, but the route is described as it exists at present. Find the 3 bolts up a steep face just left of a narrow black chimney groove. Follow the bolts up and over the lip (crux). Continue up easier ground to a ledge and final headwall. Clip the bolt just off the ledge, and trend right past the bush to the NBTDYH anchor.
Calum Hudson, 1991
Never Bet The Devil Your Head 17 28m
0
3bolts wire representing trad 1
Climb the narrow black chimney groove, and exit up and right to the first bolt. Alternating between natural gear (out left above the 1st bolt is a hidden cam slot) and 2 more bolts, continue up over the wide ledge and past the black left leaning corner. Easy to the anchor rings. Pro is good but a little hard to find (micro wires may be helpful).
Gabriel Lincourt, 2006
More Bang For Your Buck 17 30m
0
5bolts wire representing trad 1
Starts on the pronounced arête just right of NBTDYH, and climbs cracks and short walls up a less defined arête to the NBTDYH anchors. Five bolts and gear.
Neil Silverwood, 2008
Devil's Advocate 20 30m
0
wire representing trad
Start in the scrub and move up over the ledge to meet the climb proper. Delicately up the thin crack with indifferent pro including lots of micro-cams. Move left for gear (extenders required) just below the bulge, then up through (crux) and balance up the steep wall to anchors directly above. Gear is plentiful but not gold standard – very small or in flares or shallow slots. (Bolts were placed on adjacent routes done later).
Lindsay Main, 2008
Joe's Route 19 28m
0
5bolts wire representing trad
Start about the same place to gain the overhanging groove with a bush. Swing around the arête to the left (bolt) and climb Devil’s Advocate for three metres. Step right at the next bolt and up the slab. Pull through the first roof to an alcove, then go left at the second, and up to easier ground and the anchors.4-5 bolts.
Joe Arts, 2008
Joe's Other Route 18 28m
0
5bolts wire representing trad
Follows a crack initially to a ledge; then bolts guide up a groove with a high cam placement. Move horizontally right from the corner to gain a crack and more bolts. Five bolts and gear. From the top bolt move left about five metres to the anchors.
Joe Arts, 2007
HB Hell's Bells 16 28m
0
wire representing trad
The first of the four routes on Ice Buttress. A left-facing corner against the WHFO buttress with a couple of bushes. Up the corner (steeper than it looks) and onto easier ground tending right. Move right to the anchors, which are below the top of the cliff and cannot be seen from the left. Protection is wires and smaller cams.
Lindsay Main, 2007
When Hell Froze Over 18 26m
1.02
6bolts wire representing trad 1
Where the access ledge thins to about 1- 1.2m, is a prominent arête. Using the arête and what face holds you find, make bouldery moves past the first 3 bolts then on to easier climbing and adequate natural pro higher up. 6 bolts, wires/cams & anchors.
Tom Jones, 1997
Satan Doesn't Ice Skate 17 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
The open corner, capped by a roof at 10m, just right of When Hell Froze Over. Take a #4 cam or large hex for above the lip of the roof. Meets WHFO about a metre above its last bolt (which can be used to protect some of the moves above the roof, if the flaring cam slot behind the mini-bush is wet). Mint gear!
Gabriel Lincourt, 2006
The Devil's Due 15
0
wire representing trad
Start just right of SDIS following a line of weakness to the obvious cracked roof. Pull through on huge holds – the jammed block seems to be solid. Climb the crack and move left on to a ledge, then join the top of SDIS.
Lindsay Main, 2007
One For The Road 16
0
wire representing trad
About 20 metres further right along the bushy ledge is an area with a right-facing corner. Start under the trees and climb the corner over a couple of bulges with generally good gear, staying left all the way. Anchor at a handy embedded rock and/or bush.
Lindsay Main, 2008
Hellfire And Brimstone 16
0
3bolts wire representing trad
This route is much further along the cliff line past Ice Buttress. Follow the fence at the very end of the farm track to the top of the route, and rap down. Climb from the ledge (direct start below possible) past 3 bolts to the wedged flake. Layback off the flake and up the off-hands/fingers crack. Watch out for loose blocks at the top.
Gabriel Lincourt, 2006

Comments

topo of main cliff shows NBD where A River Runs is.

A 60 m single rope is very useful for descents