Somnthing

The route follows the (lookers) rightmost large buttress on the face. Accessed by traversing in from the right up glacier carved slabs until a vegetated gravel ledge system leads to the base of the main climbing. Direct probably goes too, though in a stepwise vegetated fashion. Follow your nose through the buttress with steps of 15-16, until a face with multiple crack/corner systems with roofs on the right is reached. Pick the best looking line through the face and continue up. A section of 17 was found on the RHS of a pillar above this - you might find somnthing else! The whole route contains many options in most places. Surprisingly good rock quality! Some excellent climbing to be had. Large ledges for belays within 60m rope lengths. A rack of 5 cams 0.2-1 was carried and all used, however the gear tended on the smaller side. Large slings very useful for belays. Some significant runouts not only due to the small rack, so best to be very solid at, or better - above the grade. Descent via couloir on the N with one 30m rappel. A great day out. Access via Rock Burn and streambed/spurs beneath Pt 1943 and traversing into the basin at 1200m contour, although descent through OK bush bashing was made down the spur under Pt 1800 and into side stream with marked 85m waterfall, see Place (North East Face, Somnus) description. Route marked in Place reference photo as ST.