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Mt Tyndall


When Tyndall was first climbed by Frank Wright and J R Simpson on February 21, 1914, from the Dart Valley, mention was made that it had been ‘partially ascended’ previously, and indeed in 1922 Professor James Park claimed that Alexander McKay, John Buchanan and himself had climbed it in 1881, along with Mt Edward, Mt Ansted, and ‘all the high peaks to the south’ [of Hector Col]. McKay’s account on the other hand, written a few months after their expedition, makes it clear that they only went as high as ‘Red Rock’ on Tyndall, and indicates that Park’s claims to this and the other ascents were probably embellished with the passage of time.

POINT (168.64009654 -44.53026876)
CA11 536 600
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Via Shotover Saddle, 1,III 1,III 0m

Start up easy tussock slopes on the down valley side of Tyndall Stream. When approaching Shotover Saddle bear west below the patch of red rock. Traverse through a series of easy snow basins on the north side of the East Ridge into the cirque below the low peak. Steep snow slopes lead out, on to the North Ridge a few hundred metres north of the low peak and an easy slope leads on to the high peak beyond. This is a long climb and would probably take about nine hours from Cascade Hut to the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

 North Ridge, 1,II 1,II

From Cascade Saddle, Tyndall is a very easy climb by the North Ridge. Although first climbed from the Dart valley, the ridge is now normally climbed from Aspiring Hut, taking about six hours to the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II

Allan Uren & John Cocks