Via Shotover Saddle.

Start up easy tussock slopes on the down valley side of Tyndall Stream. When approaching Shotover Saddle bear west below the patch of red rock. Traverse through a series of easy snow basins on the north side of the East Ridge into the cirque below the low peak. Steep snow slopes lead out, on to the North Ridge a few hundred metres north of the low peak and an easy slope leads on to the high peak beyond. This is a long climb and would probably take about nine hours from Cascade Hut to the summit.