Pluto

From the Bedford Valley a prominent scree fan leads to a couloir. A variety of routes up rock and snow ledges leading round towards the North West Face can be followed, the final ascent of the tower being up a couloir on the North West Face. Variations on the ledges up the tower have been followed. From Pluto Col climb scree until the foot of a vertical step in the ridge is reached at a point overlooking Spaniard Valley. Here a large ledge tends round on to the western face to gain the couloir on the North West Face. Follow beautiful big red stepping-stones from here to the summit.

From Pluto Col. This is the steep left-hand ridge viewed in profile from the bivvy. The route includes 2 distinct overhanging steps, both of which are turned on the climber’s right. It is loose and steep. Descent is via abseil back down the route.