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From the Bedford Valley a prominent scree fan leads to a couloir. A variety of routes up rock and snow ledges leading round towards the North West Face can be followed, the final ascent of the tower being up a couloir on the North West Face. Variations on the ledges up the tower have been followed.
From Pluto Col climb scree until the foot of a vertical step in the ridge is reached at a point overlooking Spaniard Valley. Here a large ledge tends round on to the western face to gain the couloir on the North West Face. Follow beautiful big red stepping-stones from here to the summit.
North West Face
J.A. Sim, V.J. Leader, K. Grinling, Dec 1931.