Malte Brun Pass

The pass can be reached either via the lower sections of the East Ridge of the Aiguilles Rouges by dropping down a steep gut onto the Cascade Glacier or by travelling up the Murchison Glacier and climbing up the Cascade Stream, gaining the south side of the glacier. Ascend the Cascade Glacier up easy slopes to the pass. After crossing the broad expanse of the pass, descend either snow or, in late summer, rock and scree to the Beetham Valley. See below for route from Beetham Valley. From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass.

From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. The descent onto the Cascade Glacier is straightforward. To reach the Murchison Glacier either ascend from the lower Cascade Glacier up 250m of gullies onto the lower East Ridge of Aiguilles Rouges or else sidle around down the side of the snout of the Cascade Glacier.