From the Beetham Valley

From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. The descent onto the Cascade Glacier is straightforward. To reach the Murchison Glacier either ascend from the lower Cascade Glacier up 250m of gullies onto the lower East Ridge of Aiguilles Rouges or else sidle around down the side of the snout of the Cascade Glacier.