Malte Brun

Descend the south-west ridge of Mt Hamilton to a narrow rubbly notch (the Hamilton-Malte Brun
Col). Alternatively, ascend directly to the col via a narrow couloir from the Bonney Glacier. From
the col, climb up a steep slab for 100m, then on up the ridge, which rises in a series of short steps
of good rock.

From the lower Bonney Glacier, ascend the ribs and slabs of good rock between the North East and
North Ridges.Plenty of variations have been climbed here.

Up prominent rock rib to the right of the gully on the North face to the from the Bonney Glacier.

15 - 20 pitches

2/3 of the route was on fantastic rock. The last 1/3 was quite chossy.

First accent was done with bivy gear and the team descended down the Bonney Rib.

This climb is a variation on Multi Sport and shares the same first 7 pitches. The climb is 16 full pitches at which point the route meets the North East Ridge at 3000m. From here to the summit a lot of chossy Jenga tower ridge line traversing is required.

First ascent was done with bivy gear and descent was down via the Bonney Rib

From the névé of the Bonney Glacier, ascend the prominent snow and ice couloir to within 200m of the summit. Not recommended, especially inlate summer, as some of the worst rock on Malte becomes exposed in the upper couloir. This is not the couloir famously glissaded by Fyfe, which is
smaller and further left.

From the head of the Bonney Glacier, scramble up and left on slabs/snow for 100m. Pick a line
up compact rock that steepens progressively to a crux (grade 14) before reaching a ledge (two –
three pitches). Continue up another three – four pitches to the cheval, or follow the ledge to the
right to meet the top of the Bonney Rib. A good late season option when access to the base of the
Bonney Rib is cut off.

Highly recommended. Now that the West Ridge (Yak Route) hasbecome frequently difficult to access, the Bonney Rib is the best way to sample the delights of Malte Brun’s famous cheval—a spectacularly exposed and narrow section of solid red rock. Many partiesstart this climb from a good bivvy/camp spot on the col between the Bonney and Malte Brun
Glaciers, below the prominent gendarmes at the base of the Bonney Rib.
From the Bonney Névé, use snowfields to access the rib above the gendarmes, then climb good rock (up to grade 10–11) to join the West Ridge. Turn left
and follow the ridge, which narrows until the cheval
is reached. After negotiating the cheval, the ridge broadens and becomes slightly easier, but the rock quality deteriorates. The summit is another 200m higher and can take a surprisingly long time from the cheval.
This is now the standard descent route and most parties require a few abseils to return down the rib. On your way up make a note of where to turn off the ridge. Please take old tat from previous climbs with you on your way down—it’s unsightly and unsafe.

An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at roughly 60m length on ascent. The route was first attempted up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in 2015, and retreat was due to lack of gear. The first complete ascent was done with rock shoes in optimal climbing conditions, switching to approach shoes at the apex of the West Ridge. BYO rap cord and expect to replace it completely.
Route photo taken from summit of Rumdoodle in February 2015 with slightly more snow on the route than on the first complete ascent.
Useful GPS waypoints, current in 2020 are:
The point to aim for when climbing the moraine wall (this will get you to the old Malte Brun hut site:
Lat: -43.54864
Long: 170.28069
NZTM 1380331 5174664
Elevation: 1640m

Top of the access gully:
Lat: -43.55025
Long:170.28311
Elev: 1828m

Bivvy site (there are many others):
Lat: -43.55298
Long: 170.28782
Elev: 2036m

This has long been a popular route, as it provided the least technical way to the upper West Ridge.
However, over the last few years there has been rampant recession of the Malte Brun Glacier,
which has exposed more difficult rock. By late summer there can also be sections of steep, hard,
old basal ice that require good mountaineering skills to negotiate.
From the true left edge of the upper Malte Brun Glacier, negotiate one to two pitches of glacier-worn rock (grade 12–14), tend right up a ramp, then head up the line of least resistance to gain the West Ridge (a number of options exist).Follow the ridge to the top of the Bonney Rib,and then continue as for Route 5.95.
Hugh Chambers, Jack Clarke, Feb 1912

A very long climb, recently made slightly moredifficult due to rockfall. The lower ridge is straight forward, but some parties have opted to avoid it by sidling on scree on the northside of the ridge, climbing back up to regain the ridge at a col at 2250m. From there, followthe ridge on good rock. At one point, a largechunk of the ridge has fallen off, leaving a notch with a very steep, smooth pillar of rock on the uphill (eastern) side. From the notch, traverse horizontally on the left (north) side—about grade12, but very exposed—to bypass the difficult rock, then climb up to regain the ridge. The ridge
has some sustained sections of grade 12 climbing then eases off before joining Route 5.95. Cross the cheval and continue another 200m higher to the summit.