|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Head up from obvious start to join weakness. Chimney moves are the crux
Follow weakness/ crack then head left to Arete.
Continue up arete to large ledge, then follow right trending cracks up to belay ledge.
Step up to tiny roof, step right, then follow red rock keeping approx 10m right of grey corner.
Continue up 12m then cross left over grey corner onto new red rib. Steep and fun. Best pitch **
25m to ledge, ignore existing rap station 10m out left. Plug in .5 cam into grey roof, then step onto red prow.
Easy scrambling to apex of West Ridge. Some existing anchors/ bollards in place at approx 25m intervals.
An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at
IV 4 14,12,14,13,14,12,6
Ruari MacFarlane, Gavin Lang 6th March 2020