Biophilia

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1144IV55mYes
 

Head up from obvious start to join weakness. Chimney moves are the crux

21257mYes
 

Follow weakness/ crack then head left to Arete.

31458mYes
 

Continue up arete to large ledge, then follow right trending cracks up to belay ledge.

41358mYes
 

Step up to tiny roof, step right, then follow red rock keeping approx 10m right of grey corner.

51450mYes
 

Continue up 12m then cross left over grey corner onto new red rib. Steep and fun. Best pitch **

61258mNo
 

25m to ledge, ignore existing rap station 10m out left. Plug in .5 cam into grey roof, then step onto red prow.

7685mNo
 

Easy scrambling to apex of West Ridge. Some existing anchors/ bollards in place at approx 25m intervals.

Grade: 
IV 4 14,12,14,13,14,12,6
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
421m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Ruari MacFarlane, Gavin Lang 6th March 2020
Route Image: 
UUID: 
624d308e-d74a-4d64-8eb9-b4458848a163