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Natural pro required
First ascent
Ruari MacFarlane, Gavin Lang 6th March 2020
Located on

An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at roughly 60m length on ascent. The route was first attempted up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in 2015, and retreat was due to lack of gear. The first complete ascent was done with rock shoes in optimal climbing conditions, switching to approach shoes at the apex of the West Ridge. BYO rap cord and expect to replace it completely.
Route photo taken from summit of Rumdoodle in February 2015 with slightly more snow on the route than on the first complete ascent.
Useful GPS waypoints, current in 2020 are:
The point to aim for when climbing the moraine wall (this will get you to the old Malte Brun hut site:
Lat: -43.54864
Long: 170.28069
NZTM 1380331 5174664
Elevation: 1640m
Top of the access gully:
Lat: -43.55025
Elev: 1828m
Bivvy site (there are many others):
Lat: -43.55298
Long: 170.28782
Elev: 2036m

  • P1
  • 14
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • 55m
  • Trad

Head up from obvious start to join weakness. Chimney moves are the crux

  • P2
  • 12
  • 57m
  • Trad

Follow weakness/ crack then head left to Arete.

  • P3
  • 14
  • 58m
  • Trad

Continue up arete to large ledge, then follow right trending cracks up to belay ledge.

  • P4
  • 13
  • 58m
  • Trad

Step up to tiny roof, step right, then follow red rock keeping approx 10m right of grey corner.

  • P5
  • 14
  • 50m
  • Trad

Continue up 12m then cross left over grey corner onto new red rib. Steep and fun. Best pitch **

  • P6
  • 12
  • 58m

25m to ledge, ignore existing rap station 10m out left. Plug in .5 cam into grey roof, then step onto red prow.

  • P7
  • 6
  • 85m

Easy scrambling to apex of West Ridge. Some existing anchors/ bollards in place at approx 25m intervals.