South Face

(9 routes)

Above Malte Brun Pass

Face (Alpine)
South West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
5.99 Moore Gully V 3+ 4
Ascend the prominent gully on the left side of the face to reach the West Ridge below the Cheval.
Peter Moore, Dec 1973.
5.100 Central Rib VI 4 4
From halfway up the Beetham Glacier ascend broken spurs and ridges on the left side of the prominent central rib.
Ian Cave, Mike Gill, John Nichols, Feb 1960.
5.101 The Christmas Turkey VI 4 4
Start up a prominent couloir in the centre of the face ( between two distinct aretes), and ascend until the couloir peters out. Traverse left around a buttress then ascend gullies to the upper West Ridge.
Roddie MacKenzie, Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders, Dec 1981.
5.102 Snuff VI 5
Climbs the distinct arete to the right of the Christmas Turkey, beginning just to the left of the ‘big red spot’ at the bottom of the face. A couple of scrambly pitches on poor rock lead to steepening ground with good rock (two crux pitches of grade 17). The upper part of the route is again easier angled with poor rock. The first ascentionists climbed the route in 16 pitches.
Ben Dare, Mike Rowe, Feb 2011
5.103 Rock and Roll V 4+ 4
Ascend the third prominent snow cone left of the South Ridge and on up mixed snow and rock, with two short steep steps. After 200m, easier ground leads up rightwards towards the summit. If clear of snow and ice, the rock is not very sound.
Dave Fearnley, Fiona MacKenzie, Craig Nottle, Dec 1983.
5.104 Rock n Roll Pt 2 V 4+ 4
Starts left of the direct route. When good ice covers the “forgettable rock” then this route could be worth a look, otherwise probably not.
Craig Nottle, Dave Fearnley, Fiona MacKenzie, Jan 1984.
5.105 Rightside Direct V 4 4+
Ascend the second prominent snow cone left of the South Ridge and, ignoring a ramp leading right to the Zig Zag route, ascend five steep ice pitches to reach easier-angled snow slopes leading to the summit.
Duncan Ritchie, Judith Terpestra, Jan 1983.
5.106 Zig Zag IV 4 4-
A classic, which is often in condition when the other routes on the face are out of condition. Incredibly this was skied in late October 2017 by the team that made the first ski descent of the Caroline Face. Ascend the second prominent snow cone from the South Ridge and follow a ramp out right and into an amphitheatre. Move up left onto the crest of a buttress and then follow snowfields to the summit.
Nigel Perry, Richard Mortenson, Jan 1981.
5.107 South Ridge III 3+
From Malte Brun Pass skirt around the first few pinnacles on the west side of the lower ridge, then head up the crest of the ridge, which rises in two long steps. The rock is very rotten and in parts the ridge is quite exposed. Not recommended as a summer climb, but rather when it is covered with snow and ice (this doesn’t stop some people though). Probably the best way to descend if you’ve just climbed the South West Face though it has also been recommended to descend the ridge then cross into the end of the Zig-Zag route nearest the ridge.
Peter Graham, Claude Macdonald, Jim Murphy, Feb 1909
File attachments: 
Alex Palman