South Face

(7 routes)

Above Malte Brun Pass

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Moore Gully 4
Ascend the prominent gully on the left side of the face to reach the West Ridge below the Cheval.
Peter Moore, Dec 1973.
Central Rib 4
From halfway up the Beetham Glacier ascend broken spurs and ridges on the left side of the prominent central rib.
Ian Cave, Mike Gill, John Nichols, Feb 1960.
The Christmas Turkey 4
Start up a prominent couloir on the face 200m right of the original route and ascend until the couloir peters out. Traverse left around the buttress and ascend gullies to the West Ridge.
Roddie MacKenzie, Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders, Dec 1981.
Rock and Roll 4
Ascend the third prominent snow cone left of the South Ridge and on up mixed snow and rock, with two short steep steps. After 200m, easier ground leads up rightwards towards the summit. If clear of snow and ice, the rock is not very sound.
Dave Fearnley, Fiona MacKenzie, Craig Nottle, Dec 1983.
Rock n Roll Pt 2 4
Starts left of the direct route. When good ice covers the “forgettable rock” then this route could be worth a look, otherwise probably not.
Craig Nottle, Dave Fearnley, Fiona MacKenzie, Jan 1984.
Rightside Direct 4+
Ascend the second prominent snow cone left of the South Ridge and, ignoring a ramp leading right to the Zig Zag route, ascend five steep ice pitches to reach easier-angled snow slopes leading to the summit.
Duncan Ritchie, Judith Terpestra, Jan 1983.
Zig Zag 4-
Ascend the second prominent snow cone from the South Ridge and follow a ramp out right and into an amphitheatre. Move up left onto the crest of a buttress and then follow snowfields to the summit.
Nigel Perry, Richard Mortenson, Jan 1981.
Alex Palman

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